Yesterday evening I couldn't make up my mind about where to go today, and it was only this morning that I decided to go try "Welcome to Tijuana" in Apremont Envers.
When I first tried it a few years ago, I had the impression that I lacked continuity or just plain strength to still do the crux at the end, despite moving quite well through the first moves.
It was exactly 10h when I arrived at the boulder and started working out the moves separately.
A mere 45 minutes later, I made it through the end crux, using a method that I hadn't seen before, and finished "Welcome to Tijuana".
I felt a great relief sending such a beautiful classic!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Welcome to Tijuana 7C
Some other boulders that I had put on my list to try today, were "Hadès" and "Compresse Nez", the hard left exit.
The very wide compression in "Hadès" was pulling the split in of my fingers open again, so I didn't try that one for long.
I passed by "Compresse Nez", only to find it already taken by other climbers and I as I didn't feel like climbing in a group, I continued my way, wondering where to go now.
Walking towards the buvette again, I was thinking to go to Apremont Bizons or Butte aux Dames until I noticed the boulder of "Priapisme" sticking out above the ferns at my left side.
I had already done the standing start "Priapisme (debout)" about a year ago, but wasn't strong enough for the original sitstart.
I did get stronger compared to last year and on top of the boulder was completely in the shade and totally isolated, so I headed over and started inspecting the holds of the slow drying boulder.
Everything was perfectly dry, so I gave it a chance and surprised myself that I was able to do the first couple of moves up to the crux.
This boosted my motivation and I focussed on working out the crux.
A lot of energy and some hard work later, I surprised myself even more by topping out "Priapisme".
The very wide compression in "Hadès" was pulling the split in of my fingers open again, so I didn't try that one for long.
I passed by "Compresse Nez", only to find it already taken by other climbers and I as I didn't feel like climbing in a group, I continued my way, wondering where to go now.
Walking towards the buvette again, I was thinking to go to Apremont Bizons or Butte aux Dames until I noticed the boulder of "Priapisme" sticking out above the ferns at my left side.
I had already done the standing start "Priapisme (debout)" about a year ago, but wasn't strong enough for the original sitstart.
I did get stronger compared to last year and on top of the boulder was completely in the shade and totally isolated, so I headed over and started inspecting the holds of the slow drying boulder.
Everything was perfectly dry, so I gave it a chance and surprised myself that I was able to do the first couple of moves up to the crux.
This boosted my motivation and I focussed on working out the crux.
A lot of energy and some hard work later, I surprised myself even more by topping out "Priapisme".
Fontainebleau - Apremont Buvette - Priapisme 7C(7C+)
On my way home, I found the crowds that were missing yesterday.
Around every parking that I passed, cars were parked up to a few hundred meters down the nearby streets.
Leaving home early has a lot of advantages!
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