Sunday, March 17, 2024

March 17, 2024 - Stitched up, but Noah won.

Yesterday, after I hit my head, I sent a picture via Whatsapp message into our family group with the comment "My turn ...", upon which my youngest son, Noah, responded with "Why do you copy me ?". Reason for that is because about three weeks ago, during a heavy wind storm, a branch broke off a tree and fell on his head, resulting in a heavy bleeding head wound, going to the hospital emergency and him being stitched up with six stitches, right about the same spot where my head was wounded. After my wife cleaned the wound at home, I decided a few hours later, when the bleeding still hadn't stopped, to go to the hospital as well, resulting in the wound requiring three stitches to close it up. If Noah and I were to have a stitches contest, he won by far.
Despite my head wound, I still felt motivated to go climbing, but when I woke up this morning, it was raining and it didn't look like any climbing would be possible today. Instead, I went for a walk to an isolated unpopular area to locate some boulders that I could try during the upcoming and always crowded Easter weekend, assuring that I will avoid the crowds and be climbing alone. After having done that, I drove to Beauvais to locate the boulder of "Le Percuteur" again.
I had already done a couple of problems on that boulder almost three years ago, and I remembered that it took a while before I found it. That time, I wasn't parked at the Télégraphe tavern, but I remember that I had the impression that this parking was closer than the one I was parked on in 2021. I wanted to prepare myself to find it more easily when the weather would be better another day.
I was able to find the boulder after some detours and looking around, and by the time I found it again, the rain had stopped some time ago and the sky had cleared up once in a while. To my surprise, thanks to a slight breeze, the holds of "Le Percuteur" were dry and the problem even looked very climbable. On top of that, the friction on the slopers on the right was close to perfect. I was determined to go and get my crashpad from the car and come back to try it. Somehow, and luckily, the Maps app on my phone always remembers where my car is parked, so I used to app to walk straight to my car without detours and come back the same way.
I did try "Le Percuteur" three years ago, but I remember that I wasn't able to reach the better crimp, not even using Youp's method, using another small and sharp crimp on the left first. Somehow, this didn't give me any problems now. The main problem now was that I due to my short legs, I wasn't able to reach the low hold under the roof statically, so I was forced to jump to it and catch it in compression. A move that usually suits me pretty well. Even though it felt nearly impossible at first, I was able to stick that move after persisting for a while. Using that method, I topped out "Le Percuteur" after a handful of attempts when coming from the start, making sure that I started recording as soon as I was doing attempts from the start. Not 7C, but in my opinion definitely 7B+ when you don't have the length to reach the far right hold statically.
Beautiful problem!

Fontainebleau - Beauvais Hameau - Le Percuteur 7B+(7C)

Saturday, March 16, 2024

March 16, 2024 - Be safe y'all!!

Last weekend, after almost 5 years, I went back to "Freestyle" in Coquibus Rumont with my oldest son helping me to carry an second crashpad.
Came really close, but after almost 2 hours, it had sucked all the energy out of me and I was forced to leave it behind undone.
I was determined to go back today, alone this time and carrying both crashpads myself. Highly motivated, I warmed up doing the very last move of "Freestyle", and when I wanted to try the start again, I passed the first crux, then very unexpectedly the second and hardest crux where I had expected to fall, but I stuck it. Realizing that I hadn't even turned on the camera yet, in a fraction of a second, I thought of Pieter who would have told me to continue. Instead of jumping off, I took a deep breath and somewhat unexpectedly, stuck the very last move as well, which is also the last crux of this gem.
Mixed feelings of joy disappointment came over me because of not having it on video, but as I cruised through it on my first attempt today, I wasn't even tired yet and was pretty confident to be able to repeat it for the video after a short break.
As it happens, I always tend to have less drive and motivation when wanting to repeat a problem immediately after doing it, but I cruised through the first crux start again, felt confident for the second crux, but maybe too confident and probably too carelessly as well, slipped off and hit the back of head very hard against the boulder behind me. I had a small cut that started bleeding, but adrenalin kept me going and I gave it another few tries with my hat on, but for obvious reasons, I had a hard time keeping my focus. Barely 5 minutes later, the adrenalin faded, I got a slight headache and when I noticed that the bleeding didn't stop, decided to go back home.
Only a video with some attempts from last week and from after my injury, but honestly, at this point, I don't care, and even feel that topping out "Freestyle" on my first attempt today, was all worth it. No regrets.
I decided to publish a video anyway, containing some of my best attempts from last week and the attempt (moment) where I had hit my head after the send today. 
Be safe y'all!!



Fontainebleau - Coquibus Rumont - Freestyle 7C (attempts last week and post warmup send of today)

Sunday, March 3, 2024

March 03, 2024 - A matter of (calculated) luck.

After a lot of rain yesterday and last night, everything was soaking wet outside this morning. It made no sense to leave early, so I took my time and left later than usual. It was still mostly wet outside and even though it wasn't forecasted to rain today, it was cloudy and there wasn't a lot of wind to speed up the drying process. It was going to be a matter of luck to find something dry enough to climb, but taking a calculated guess, I intended to try and get the luck on my side by going to Apremont. My intention was to start my search in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, and from there work my way back through some other Apremont areas as needed.
No luck in Apremont Vallon de la Solitude, but working my way back through Apremont Est, I did find some boulders dry here and there, but nothing that I had in my mind to try. Still working my way back, tried my chances at the boulder of "Tropicaux", knowing that this one gave me luck a few months ago. Low and behold, even though it looked bad at first, the holds of "Trop de Piquette" were dry and the low pinch was even in very good conditions friction wise.
I had briefly tried "Trop de Piquette" last time after I did "Tropicaux", but I only get mu butt of the ground, after which I found mself completely stuck and couldn't move out of the position I was in. With a fresh mind today, I let my body guide on what it felt like doing next and came up with a possible solution. It turned out to be a very awkward and difficult move, but after pushing through, I was able to stick it and top out.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Trop de Piquette 7B+



On my way back, I passed by "Egoïste" and realized that it was dry as well. I had only tried once or twice, but only briefly because the balanced moving didn't suit me well and I figured it was not in my style. That was maybe ten years ago though, so I decided to stop and give it a few goes. Surprisingly, I was able to find my balance and was moving quite well through it. After a handful of attempts, and some minor tweaks, I topped out this ultra classic and had a hard time understanding why I never did this sooner.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Egoïste 7A(6C+)



The sitstart, "Egoïste (assis)", followed immediately after.

Fontainebleau - Apremont - Egoïste (assis) 7A+

Saturday, February 24, 2024

February 24, 2024 - Craziness from the North.

Last year when the weather was not good enough to climb, I went for a walk around Apremont with Pieter and Jan (Gorrebeeck). When we passed through Apremont Mare aux Biches, we stopped at some boulders, out of which the low roof of "Un Ch'ti Délire", just below the North side of the ridge. It looked impossible to Jan and Pieter, but I remember that I kind of saw a way.
Last Sunday, I finally went to the boulder to give it a try and, to be honest, the far move to the crimp under the roof did really look impossible. Even after I tried it a few times, it still looked impossible. Nevertheless, I didn't give up and after a while I started to change my mind and a while later, I was able to stick it. After that move, your body is under a constant tension and it's still a couple of moves in that position to go to the end. Due to rain, I had to let it go, but I was determined to go back.
After a short warmup this morning, I focused on the move under the roof, and immediately after I was able to do it, I turned on the camera and started giving attempts from the start. Much faster than expected, I was able to finish it.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Un Ch'ti Délire 7C(7B+)



I didn't have much time left anymore, but still got away with a flash of "Déserteur (prolongé)".

Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Déserteur (prolongé) 7A

Saturday, February 17, 2024

February 17, 2024 - Pure joy.

Last weekend I was in Belgium for the bachelor weekend of one of my best friends who is getting married in April. Even though I don't drink alcohol, it was a very exhausting weekend and I had taken the day off on Monday so I could go for a climb.
I was still very tired, but nevertheless had a good session working in "Paie ton Mac DO (assis)" and even fell off after the crux of the problem on my fourth attempt. After that, it only got worse and I had to leave it behind, but I knew I could do it if I was more fresh and decided to go back today.
The weather was great, the birds were chirping and there was a nice blue sky and quite warm in the sun. It felt like Spring was there already. Even though I had a feeling that there was a big chance of sending "Paie ton Mac Do (assis)" quite quick, I didn't expect sending it immediately on my first attempt after a short warmup. I executed the moves almost perfect and stayed calm and focused when I passed the crux. Pure joy!

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Paie to Mac Do (assis) 7C(7B+)



Having arrived barely fifteen minutes ago, I felt like staying in the area and walked around to look for something else. Not having planned for it, I decided to try "L'Esprit du Knee Bar", of which I had done the standing start back in October 2019. That day, I witnessed Pieter doing the full line, but I had failed finishing it. To my big surprise, this one as well went on my first attempt of today. Pure joy!

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - L'Esprit du Knee Bar 7B



I felt in shape, but couldn't try "Maison de la Presse" due to humid slopers on the shady side of the boulder. For "Astromech" and "Astrolab" I definitely prefer to have a spotter and being the shade, they were humid anyway.
After looking on bleau.info, I decided to go and try the new "Kayzen" in the Western part of the sector. After watching the video of the first ascensionist, I soon discovered that his method was way too morpho for me. There was no way for me to reach the edge of the overhang the way he did, so I had to come up with something else and tried it with a right heelhook which felt really hard. I wasn't sure I would be able to do it that way, but I stuck around because I had so much fun trying to unlock this sequence. My persistence was rewarded with an ascent a while and quite a few attempts later. Pure joy!

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Kayzen 7A+(7A)



Back at home I was in a real Spring mood and decided to prune our olive tree. Three hours later it was done and the feeling of Spring coming up felt like pure joy!

Saturday, January 27, 2024

January 27, 2024 - Better than a honeymoon.

I had planned to try several problems in Cuvier Sorcières and Cuvier Est, but my initial goal was to work in "Le Proueptologue (assis)". 
After some stretching, I warmed up with the easy "Presse-toi", about 20m above "Le Proueptologue". The sitstart of "Presse-toi" followed immediately after the standing start. A hard first move, but everything after, didn't real feel hard enough for the proposed 7B. Nevertheless, it was good as a warmup.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Sorcières - Presse-toi (assis) 7B



Working in "Le Proueptologue (assis)" went quite well, and even though I can do the problem in two overlapping parts, stitching it all together requires more consistency in the moves and I sort of quickly lost motivation for it. Somehow, I had the feeling that it would be more fun with someone else trying it too, allowing me to rest and enjoy the process more than being alone.
I decided to stop and try "Lune de Miel" on my way back, a problem that has been on my list since I tried it a few years ago. Today, for my second session, I had to rethink about how I did the first part. The only thing that I really remembered was that I used a toehook left to be able to grab the tiny pinch statically left hand. I soon realized that even though the moves are beautiful, they are very delicate and there is absolutely no room for error on each of them. It was good thing that another climber, Fabien, gave me a couple of tips for the last part.
After many tries, even though I didn't expect it all, I was able to top out this beauty, just on that one time that Fabien decided to film it too.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Est - Lune de Miel 7B




Sunday, January 21, 2024

January 21, 2024 - L'Homme en Feu (assis).

I went for a walk with my youngest son, Noah, and decided to have a quick climb while being in J.A. Martin. We put our Minecraft sword and pickaxe aside for a moment, allowing me focus for a moment on "L'Homme en Feu (assis)", a problem I was sure about doing it quickly now that the top was in good conditions and not like an other time when I tried it and chickened out at the slippery top.
The big slopey undercling has a tendency to be wet a lot and it seems like it's contantly dripping water, but at least the slopey parts for the hands were dry. I only had to watch out to use them at the right spot, if not, my hands would be soaked, making the rest of the problem nearly impossible. Being there with Noah, I didn't want to let him wait for too long, so with some added pressure, I was able to make quick work of it.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - L'Homme en Feu (assis) 7B