Wednesday, May 9, 2018

May 09, 2018 - Oh, those conventions.

Yesterday morning I went to La Fontaine Saint-Bernard, across the road from Dame Jouanne, and Mont Simonet.
My body had at last become too tired and I had to give up early and go back home empty handed. I needed a rest.
Today was a normal working day, and having mostly a desk job, it allowed my body to recover somewhat, but still to the point that I felt ready for another short session after work.

I stopped in Gorge aux Châts, only to find out that the first move of "Magneton" is way too far for me, and I tried quite a few times.
Still eager to climb, I moved over to the nearby boulder of "Le Pare Dessus" as I was interested in trying "Pare Dessus le Sanglier".
This one starts in "Le Pare Dessus", traverses to the left as for "L'Ami Sanglier (du fond)", but once in the kind of cave, reach for a far crimp and exit as for "Le Pare Dessus".

Knowing both lines quite well, it went down on my second attempt, but I was totally out of breath!
Very nice and quite physical problem!

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Pare Dessus le Sanglier (sans convention) 7B




I was packed and ready to leave when I decided to have a quick look at the exact name of the problem I just did, and it was only then that I noticed that the description above ended with "exit as for Le Pare Dessus without using by convention the jug on the right (both for feet and hands)".
I was still catching my breathe a bit and for a moment I doubted, but in the end I decided to unpack again, took a short break to recover and went for it again.

Again, it went down on my second attempt, but not using the jug for the foot, prevents you from having a good rest after taking the swing.
It adds a little plus to the problem.
Maybe another convention could be added, allowing you to rest in the sort of cave for only two seconds, adding another plus to it ? Oh, those conventions sometimes.

Still, a nice, fun and physical problem.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Pare Dessus le Sanglier 7B(7B+)


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