My body comes into a better position to hold on to a bad undercling and making the final move.
A couple of times my hand was full on the top sloper, even too far up.
It has become a matter of deadpointing the dyno onto the first 10 cm of the top sloper. Further away it just gets worse and nearly impossible to hold after such a violent move.
I'm getting really close to sending it now.
I have already noticed that after a good session in "Lamia-San", that it's better to do something different the day after.
My choice for today was "Albator" in Apremont Ouest.
At the start of the area and at the bottom of the hill, it's located in a small chaos of boulders, unpopular because of being overshadowed by the main area at barely 50m.
Agreed, it dries slowly there, but it's a quite shady sector, so recommended on warm sunny days like today.
All in all it took me about twenty minutes to complete, but I probably would have done it quicker if the temperature was ten degrees lower.
It all comes down to sticking the very bad sloper right hand in the middle of the overhang, which is not that convenient with this heat and sweaty hands.
Probably more like 7A+, but definitely a fun relatively unknown problem to do. Hidden in plain sight.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Albator 7B(7A+)
By the way, there's nothing special about the day before June. It's just what today happened to be.