March 22, 2020 - Don't be like me.

I realize that this post will make a lot of people angry and that I will gain quite some disrespect with it. I could have simply written nothing and stayed silent about it, however, I want to stick to the truth and be honest about what I did, hoping that some will understand my point of view and the dilemma that I faced.

Last weekend, I had started working in "Hallelujah" and amazingly, was able to do all moves and do the boulder in two parts. I only needed to fine tune the overlapping crux, but I knew that this could be my very first of the grade. The problem is short, powerful, slopey and on compression; exactly my style and what I like.
Two days ago, on Friday evening, when climbing was still allowed, I went back and fell off the last move a few times, when coming from the start. It was about 20°C though and the slopers had warmed up. I knew that if the conditions would just be a tiny bit in favor, it would have most likely been a send.
Yesterday though, the forest closed down for any kind of sportive activity and it was just then that the temperature cooled down with ten degrees and a mild wind from the North-East set in. Just the conditions that I needed for that last sloper and most likely be able to send "Hallelujah".
The problem and the conditions were racing through my mind all day yesterday, and even though I'm not the kind of person that can stay at home for long, I managed to stay away from the forest.

This morning, I was up early and the conditions were still quite ideal. I didn't want a bad mood and extreme frustration of not being able to go back to a boulder at a stone's throw from my house, interfere with my family life, so I admit, I cracked and left at 8h30 this morning.
Barely an hour later, having finished "Hallelujah", I was back home.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Sud - Hallelujah 8A(8A+)

I know that it will be in vain for the most, but I will now try and explain my silly and irresponsible action.

The country is closed and we have to stay at home against our will, but for the sake of humanity. Even though the supermarkets are ideal grounds for any contamination, we are allowed to go shopping for necessary supplies and walk our dogs on the condition that you are alone.

I completely understand that the parking grounds around the forest were being closed, as to avoid gatherings of crowds (at least, that was my understanding), but I couldn't grasp the fact individual people were also being refused access to an area where the air is the cleanest and the risk of contamination is the least.

It was only after the facts that someone made me realize that in case of an accident and for example a broken leg, it would require emergency services resources, which could indirectly lead to more Corona deaths.

"Hallelujah" is my first of the grade, and now I'm having mixed feelings about it. I don't feel any pride and the joy from the first ten minutes after the ascent is gone and replaced by guilt.

I know that I do a lot of good things every day, but it are these kind of selfish and silly one time actions that will be remembered the longest.
Unlike the desire of some, I will not remove my video from YouTube, as I do feel like sharing this magnificent piece of rock and the brief but true at the time happiness that I felt climbing it.

I didn't mean any personal disrespect to anyone, but I have regretfully broken the new rules, disrespected humanity and my civil duty, for which I truly am deeply sorry. 

How hard it may be, stay home and don't go to the forest like I foolishly did.

If you want to be a civil example, be a hero or even a better person to society, then don't be like me.

March 13, 2020 - Lockdown.

The world is in a lockdown. At least, that's a bit how it feels with everything that's going. Yesterday evening the president of France announced drastic measures such as closing all schools and universities for at least two weeks. Just like many countries had already decided before and others, such as Belgium and Germany followed.
Some countries even decided to close hotels, restaurants, bars and even shops. The crowd with full carts at the supermarkets here, show that a lot of people fear the same will happen here too. It reminded me of a scene out of an apocalyptic movie.

Anyway, having a day off today, I had some time to go the forest for a climb and be away from all the fuss and the Corona talk.
I don't know why, but for some reason, my right wrist hurts with most movements, not much, but enough to not feel at my strongest. The motivation however, was very present and I decided to go for some less hard boulders in Apremont Butte aux Peintres.

I started off in back end of the area and only needed a handful of attempts to finish "Une Pensée pour les Petits".
The conditions weren't as good as I hoped though.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Peintres - Une Pensée pour les Petits 7A

Found some better conditions in the center of  the area, but even though it basically only consists of two moves, "Bi Movie" was harder than it looked at first sight.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Peintres - Bi Movie 7A+(7A)

"Gecko Tokay (direct)" only needed two attempts, but it was sketchy until the very end. Hard to see on the video though.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Peintres - Gecko Tokay (direct) 7A(7A+)

The slopers were taking their toll on my wrist and even though I still tried a few more problems, I couldn't get any top out of it anymore.

March 07, 2020 - Not a traverse.

My good friend Pieter is leaving for a one year trip in a few weeks and this weekend was his last weekend that he could come over to the forest. Sadly enough, due to circumstances, I only had until early afternoon, but we made the best out of it.
We chose a nice spot on the crest of Mont Pivot, to try "Limparfait du Subversif". Even though it's not a new problem at all and at only a few minutes from my doorstep, I hadn't seen or tried this one before, mostly due to the fact that in most topo's and on bleau.info, it's categorized as a traverse.
It does climb about two meters to the right, from the start, but it's such an obvious and logical line that it doesn't feel like climbing a traverse at all. A very nice line that both Pieter and I were able to finish quite quickly.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - L'Imparfait du Subversif 7B(7A+)

Pieter did need more time though, so in the meantime, I worked on and did a slightly more direct version of "L'Imparfait du Subversif".
My first thought on the grade is a small 7A, but needs to be confirmed.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - L'Imparfait du Subversif (direct) 7A