August 27, 2020 - Devils at work.

 Took some time after work to for a climb with Bram (Honorez) and had a good and fun time in Franchard Sablons Carriers.
I wanted to try the recently opened "Devil's Plaything" as it seems to fit my style.
First did a fairly quick ascent of the crouching start.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Carriers - Devil's Plaything (accroupi) 7A

Followed by the real sitstart, which basically only adds one move, but a very hard one. At least for me.

Bram showed that the taller climbers can start with a heelhook far left while still sitting on the ground and using the same starting holds. It allowed him to do the first move almost statically.

I might have long arms, but my legs were way too short and I had to start with my left foot way to the right, making the first move very violent and still very reachy.

I thought at first that it seemed strange how only one move could add more than a grade, but I must admit that it definitely comes close to it.
Nice boulder!

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Carriers - Devil's Plaything 7B+

August 23, 2020 - Taking it slow.

 It doesn't happen a often, but yesterday I skipped a post as I had visitors over for the night. Two friends of the village I grew up in and came to Bleau with a lot when I was still living in Belgium, and we decided it was safer for them to setup their tents in my garden as we were having a BBQ in the evening.
The focus this weekend wasn't set on climbing hard, but more like a lot together and having a good time.
Yesterday we had a nice time in Les Mammouths, where I didn't spend a lot of time on hard boulders, but do have some new projects and did get a fairly quick ascent of "Vol sans Escale" in the North part of the area.

Fontainebleau - Les Mammouths - Vol sans Escale 7A(6C+)

Today was no different, but this time in Justice de Noisy where I showed them around the first part of the new area.

Again no focus on hard boulders, but also added one nice project to my list.

Got away with "Kick-Ass" on the backside of the boulder just behind the old abandoned foresters house.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Kick-Ass 6C(7A)

August 16, 2020 - Noméga.

It finally rained during the night and the first part of today, but as soon as the sky cleared up, it didn't take long to dry.
I went out to the Mont Blanc area in the afternoon, to try the new "Mégalodon", but despite some good attempts, couldn't reach the top. I then contented myself with a very quick ascent of the nearby "L'Autre Gauche". Slopers, a small sharp crimp, mantle up and done; nothing mega.

Fontainebleau - Mont Blanc - L'Autre Gauche 7A

August 15, 2020 - Death of a scorpion.

 It has finally cooled down a bit until just below 30°C in the afternoon, which is still hot, but it's especially the morning that feels so much fresher again.
I was meeting a Belgian hometown friend with some of his family in Canche aux Merciers in the afternoon, and when browsing bleau.info for some interesting boulders in the nearby areas, I stumbled upon "Mort d'une Scorpion" in Canche aux Merciers Anarchodrome, the small sector right next to the classical area of Canche aux Merciers.
It's weekend, so already this morning, the parking of this popular spot was quite packed, but I was all alone in the somewhat neglected Anarchodrome sector. At barely 100m, I could hear small groups of climbers gathering in the classical sector.

It took a while before I figured out a method for "Mort d'une Scorpion", but it was one that suited my style of climbing. Compression, reachy, slopey, ... an ascent followed quickly.
Very nice problem that gave me a lot of fun.

Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers Anarchodrome - Mort d'une Scorpion 7B+

August 09, 2020 - Come this way.

Just like in many other parts of Europe, we are going through the most likely hottest days of the year, with temperatures reaching easily above 40°C locally. It's hot!
It was already nearing 30°C at 9h30 this morning when I arrived at the boulder of "Les Braqueuses" in Rocher du Télégraphe, and even though the problem was in the shade, there was no breeze to cool down the body.
Nevertheless, I made it a quick ascent, which wasn't a luxury with the raising heat.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Les Braqueuses (assis) 7C(7B+)

We barely saw any rain since the end of June and the soil is as dry as can be, so we are in a desperate need for rain. There was some hope when the clouds turned really dark about an hour ago and a distant thunderstorm could be heard.

I watched the rain fall in the horizon and even a rainbow came and peak, but unfortunately it just didn't want to come this way.