Saturday, May 5, 2018

May 05, 2018 - Where's my stick?

This morning, I met Tim (Collier) at the bivouac of the Hippodrome and he agreed to go look for the new boulder with "La Fouine" in Roche Hercule.
While unloading the car on the parking, I sadly noticed that I had forgotten my long brush stick at "Infithèse" the day before.
If anyone should have found it, or taken it, it would be much appreciated if it could be returned to me somehow.

The boulder with "La Fouine"should be located in a small chaos in the sector towards Mont Ussy, but no matter how hard we looked, we couldn't find that specific boulder.
We found the small chaos and another boulder with "La Balise Perdue", but not the one with "La Fouine" which should be at only 50m from there.
If anyone can share some more details about its exact location, please do.
As we were already near Mont Ussy now, I proposed to go try the hard classic "L'Être Hâve" upon which Tim confirmed positive.

"L'Être Hâve" is one of those problems that I stood before the first many years ago, looking at it and thinking that is in no way possible. At least not the start.
Out of curiosity I did try it before a couple of times, but was never able to get past the starting holds.
For some reason however, this morning, even though my first two tries were hopeless, I suddenly found the way to move into the problem like Alain Dupas did on his video.
I found my way past the hard crux, jumped off and installed the camera.
It went down on the next attempt, albeit with a desperate topout.
Truly happy with this classic!

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy - L'Être Hâve 7C





I noticed that there is also a direct exit possible, which is probably the same exit as for "Help (où ça?)", but that one starts with a jumpstart that I never understood.
I did the same direct exit, but started as for "L'Être Hâve" (so without a jumpstart).
For the time being, I named it logically "L'Être Hâve (direct)", but please correct me if it's named differently, because I'm quite sure that it has been done before.
Anyway, I think it deserves a separate mention as the topout is completely different than for "L'Être Hâve" itself.

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy - L'Être Hâve (direct) 7B




Tim proposed to move to Cuvier and despite it being a Saturday, I agreed to join him this time, as I was secretly hoping that honest souls would have simply left it where it was.
Unfortunately, but not surprisingly at all, it was gone, and it most likely will be forever.

Tim wanted to finish off his project "Holey Moley" and strangely enough, especially for a Saturday, the whole boulder was free from climbers.
Strange, because the boulder was sitting perfectly in the shade, which is much desired on hot days like today.

I was able to repeat "Holey Moley" quickly, and soon after did the sitstart on the left of it.
Not sure if this is the same as "Holey Biceps", which has the same sitstart, but seems traverse more to the right before going up.
I simply continued from the sitstart into "Holey Moley", so also for the time being, I logically named it "Holey Moley (assis)".
Jan (De Smit), if you happen to read this, please let me know if this is the same or not, you can know as the first known realisation was apparently by you.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier - Holey Moley (assis) 7B




Tim needed some more tries, but was also able to finish "Holey Moley". 
One of his projects ticked. Well done Tim!

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