Tuesday, December 29, 2020

December 29, 2020 - All I can get.

There are better weeks to be in holiday when it comes down to the weather, but up to now, I have managed to divide the time quite well, taking all out of it that I can get. Climbing wise it isn't much due to the rain and very wet conditions, but again, I'm taking all that I can get.
The few times when it was not raining, the conditions were not good enough to top out harder problems, but this afternoon, I could get away with the not so easy 7A, "Armageddon Numérique" in Justice de Noisy. I had easily done the 6A standing start months ago, but couldn't find a method to get from the sitting position into the start. Being the only dry problem around the area today, I didn't have much other choice than to spend some more time in it.
It took a while to find a working sequence to get into the standing start, but once figured out it went quite smooth. Some nice moves for this not so easy 7A.
(Boulder 5 on the topo on bleau.info: Justice de Noisy - bleau.info)

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Armageddon Numérique 7A

Friday, December 25, 2020

December 25, 2020 - Merry grey Christmas.

It's been a while since I wrote something on my blog, but it's not because I haven't been climbing. It's true that the last month was pretty low on climbing, but that was mostly due to rain and bad conditions on the moments that I had time to climb. There were a few days with quite good conditions, but the drive for topping whatever, was lower than the drive to visit some more isolated harder boulders and spend a good time in solitary, trying out moves and making progress. I also saw a lot of deer deep down in the Coquibus region, which made the long exhaustive, but beautiful walks all worth the while.
Today though, I decided to go to Cassepot Roches Grises, the only day that the weather forecast looked somewhat okay. I wasn't even out of my village yet, when I thought about turning back and waiting for a few more hours for it to dry. The streets and and the ground next to them was still soaking wet, but luckily I kept on driving. Luckily, because the conditions were quite good despite the forest still being wet.

My main goal for today was nothing too hard, but I wasn't able to do "Drôle de Monde (assis)" on my last visit to the area and it hadn't gone out of mind ever since. It was one of those few projects that kept lingering and I didn't forget about it.
The conditions were much better than last time, but the dynamic move to the sloper still didn't feel easy. Very nice problem!


Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Drôle de Monde (assis) 7B



Everything else that was going to follow was bonus, so I decided to stick around in the small sector and try a few other problems nearby, such as "Ewok (droite)". 
This looked like a good candidate for an easy flash, but fifteen minutes and seven attempts later, I had to revise that thought. There are so many things that look like holds, but finding the right method took me longer than expected. Fun problem though!

Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Ewok (droite) 7A



The last one that I topped, but not the last one that I tried, was "Distance Intersidérale".  A hard violent move to start followed by a topout which is probably easier after taking the time to clean the holds.

Fontainebleau - Cassepot Roches Grises - Distance Intersidérale 7A(7B)



Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Merry Christmas!