The conditions didn't feel as good as I had hoped, and feeling heavy, I had a hard time getting back to my previous high point. I know that I can do "Papa Gaga", the sequence is there, but I will just have to come back when the conditions are much better.
I did manage to get away with a quick ascent of the actual 7A (direct) version of "32 Millièmes".
Fontainebleau - Rocher de Corne-Biche - 32 Millièmes (direct) 7A
This morning was a nice meet-up with Olaf, Markus and his wife Kathy in Apremont Bizons. Olaf wanted to try "Malfrat" and I decided to put my energy into "Malversion", which starts the same as "Malfrat", but follows the bad slopey arete to then finally finish in "Malfrat" again. Despite the description, it does feel like a logical line.
The crux of "Malversion" felt impossible at first, but as Olaf was still trying "Malfrat", I didn't mind staying with it and try to think out of the box. I still felt heavy, but I did manage to find a nice method for me, making me take out the camera for some actual real attempts. After falling off the topout of "Malfrat" at the end of the line a couple of times, I had to throw in the towel. I had too spend too much energy working out the sequence, but now that I know what to do, finishing it should work a next time.
Olaf also had a high gravity weekend, but maybe also because he was somehow quite distracted the whole weekend ...
The crux of "Malversion" felt impossible at first, but as Olaf was still trying "Malfrat", I didn't mind staying with it and try to think out of the box. I still felt heavy, but I did manage to find a nice method for me, making me take out the camera for some actual real attempts. After falling off the topout of "Malfrat" at the end of the line a couple of times, I had to throw in the towel. I had too spend too much energy working out the sequence, but now that I know what to do, finishing it should work a next time.
Olaf also had a high gravity weekend, but maybe also because he was somehow quite distracted the whole weekend ...
