October 26, 2022 - Keep it clean!

My last session trying "Gengis Khan" in Rocher de la Reine was on the 6th of November 2021, almost exactly one year ago, give or take a few days. Thanks to some tips that I got from Christophe Laumone the week before, I had a method that got me really close, always falling off the last hard move, the one to the pinch left hand. I could do the move separately and climb on to the top, except not when coming from the start. I decided back then to step away from it for a while, a while that apparently almost lasted a whole year.
The weather promised to be very good today, maybe a bit warm for the bad slopers right hand of "Gengis Khan", but I had made up my mind and decided to give it another chance. I had kept some recordings of my best attempts from last year, so I watched them before leaving, to make sure that I wouldn't lose too much time searching for the important small details in the method that suited me quite well last year.
Arriving the boulder, I warmed up doing the blue problem next to "Gengis Khan" a few times and started cleaning the crimps and slopers. Obviously, the person who tried it before me, probably yesterday, didn't clean the holds before he or she left, leaving me with the task to do it for him or her. I even had to clean more and longer than when I left later today. Please clean the holds of any problem you tried before leaving, and for your own benefit, try to clean every time as well in between attempts.
It only took a couple attempts before I came at the same point I fell almost every attempt last year. It all comes down to the small details, and after an hour of fine-tuning tiny details, I felt that it could down any moment now. I wisely decided to take a longer break and sent "Gengis Khan" on my second attempt after the break, filled with joy.

Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Reine - Gengis Khan 7C