Saturday, October 15, 2022

October 15, 2022 - Sunset flashes.

Rain yesterday and this morning made the possibility for any climbing as good as non-existent, but when it cleared up in the afternoon, I got some hope. There was a nice breeze and I patiently waited until parts of the street started to dry. Greg (Gars des Bois on bleau.info), sent me a message earlier this week, mentioning that the new "Sunset Roof" in Bois Rond Auberge dries quickly and told me about a possible left exit version still to be opened. He hadn't done it yet, but notified me about it being a gift, one that gracefully accepted.
The first boulders of the area were soaking wet, but as I got closer to the "Le Grand Requin Blanc" sector, it started to look more and more dry. I found the small roof of "Sunset Roof" dry and was able to flash the original problem with ease. It felt like 6C+ at most, but nevertheless, a very nice climb.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Sunset Roof 7A



Not being sure about what kind of left exit Greg had envisioned, I did a somewhat first impression of it on my first attempt.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Sunset Roof (gauche sans convention) 7A



Greg joined me and explained how he saw it. Following his indications, I also managed to do this version, without the pocket and only the low part of the arete, on my first attempt as well.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Sunset Roof (gauche sans le trou) 7A+



Being there, and still eager for another climb, I did another version of the left exit, eliminating the right edge of the roof and the arete as a whole. Also on my first attempt.

Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Sunset Roof (gauche sans l'arĂȘte) 7A+

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