Saturday, October 22, 2022

October 22, 2022 - Free donuts.

As Pieter has spent a few weeks in Japan with his wife, visiting her family, it was a while ago since we last climbed together, so I was delighted to see him back and spend a good climbing session. We met in Rocher Brûlé, with the intention to try some of the problems on the "Donuts" boulder. "Donuts" being the easiest problem, it was obvious to start with and warm up in that one. Surprisingly, it took a while before we figured out a method to get into the second part of the problem, but once we did, I managed to top out immediately after turning on the camera.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Brûlé - Donuts 6C+(7A)



While Pieter was tweaking the method to suite his morphology and flexibility, I sent "Donuts (assis)" on my first attempt.
Pieter did the standing start soon after.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Brûlé - Donuts (assis) 7A+(7A)



Pieter wanted to skip the sitstart, so the next logical step was to try "Donuts à la Crème" as it would give us an idea about the tiny crimps used for the exit of "Crème Brûlée" as well. Starting from the low boulder underneath, we spent quite some time finding a method for the upper part. When we both finally did the upper part, it still took quite some attempts before I was able to send "Donuts à la Crème" from the start.
Pieter was still struggling a bit, but after a longer break, during which I had turned off the camera, he sent it immediately after it, executing every move perfectly and without hesitation. I wish I had turned on the camera again immediately after the break.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Brûlé - Donuts à la Crème 7B



Eager to try "Crème Brûlée", we skipped the sitstart of "Donuts à la Crème" but working out the moves of "Crème Brûlée" took a lot of time and energy. When I finally had all the moves dialed, I didn't have energy or skin left to make any good attempts from the start. Nevertheless, "Crème Brûlée" should definitely be possible when coming back with a fresh body and skin.

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