Wednesday, September 28, 2016

September 28, 2016 - Food for discussion.

The days are getting shorter each day and my time for a quick after diner session follows with it.
I am bound to the areas closest to home and I have to make quick choices and sometimes they are not the best.

A bad choice was to spend time in "Evasion du Loup".
Not sure that I did it correctly, but I followed the most logical line according to the description on bleau.info.
Direct dynamic version just right of the standard version of Piège à Loup.
What I did was dynamic and direct, just right of "Piège à Loup", but in no way close to 7A like this. 6C at most.

Strange problem that's not really worth the detour.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Evasion du Loup 7A




The description of "La Grève des Nains (assis) says:
Sitstart below the roof of blue n°18 (without using the big holds of that problem) and exit in La Grève des Nains (red n°31).

What I used for the right hand was a sloper close to the big holds of "blue n°18" but I didn't use the big holds.
Did it help me for taking the big crimp on the left ?
Yes. I tried many times without that sloper and there was no way that I was able to reach the crimp enough to put my fingertips around it.
My feeling is that it was still around the grade.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - La Grève des Nains (assis) 7A




All this is good food for discussion, but hey, that's part of the game. Right ?

PS: it seemed that I climbed "Le Papillon" wrong and have therefore deleted the video of it.

No comments:

Post a Comment