Friday, September 9, 2016

September 09, 2016 - Yesterday and today.

Yesterday after work, I stopped at Cuvier to do some problems that I skipped on my lasts visits in Cuvier Nord.
The more popular problems were taken, so I started off with "L'Huître (assis)".
Soft for the grade, did it on my second attempt.
Probably a bit morpho for the shorter climbers among us.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - L'Huître (assis) 7A




Up next was "Fantasmagorique", another problem that I never tried before because it didn't attract me much.
It will probably never become very popular, but still, it's a nice one to tick off.

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Fantasmagorique 7A




When I arrived at home, I was surprised by one of my sisters, Manon, and her boyfriend, Ilias.
They were on their way down South and decided to spend the night here on their way.
My wife knew that for 3 weeks already, but they kept it silent so it would be a surprise. A suprise it was indeed, a nice one!

After diner we all went to 95.2 in a hurry, because darkness would fall soon.
We went straight to "Les Pieds dans la Lune", because on my way home, I had decided to give it a try again.
I could do the start, once even had the pocket, but I still had to figure out how to finish it.
Maybe it was because of the audience, but beyond my expectations, I was able to finally finish it off.
Hard physical moves, but a beautiful problem! A very nice end of the day.

I didn't bother uploading the videos yesterday, we all played Cluedo instead.

Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Les Pieds dans la Lune 7A+




Today after work, I stopped at Rocher du Mauvais Passage again, but this time I walked on the sector with "Nadine...".
A new boulder has been opened near it just recently and I wanted to see it.
"Equinox" is a 7B, but during my first try, I immediately felt that it's a hard one.
I didn't have very much time, so I set my goals on some other easier climbs and walked back to "Nadine...".
A straight up wall with a hard outward compression move as the crux.
I was able to do the crux fast, but was distracted by the top. A couple of times I went for the top straight up, but after a while I realised that I had to take it more to the right and more statically instead of dynamic.

Very nice sketchy problem where balance is the key.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - Nadine... 7A




I then walked on to the start of Rocher des Demoiselles, determined to do "Le Repos du Sphinx".
With 153 registered repetitions on bleau.info, it's probably the most repeated and classic problem of the area, yet of all the times I came here, I had never given it a try.

This one felt really hard for the grade. At least with the given convention.
The convention says that you have to use a crimp on the right side of the prow, and that you are not allowed to use the good hold on the left.
There are some good holds on the left side, so being uncertain about which one was excluded, I didn't use 2 of the better holds on the left.
Maybe I unwillingly made it harder, or maybe it's just plain hard, I don't know which one it is, but this felt more like a 7A+ to me.

Beautiful problem, but I needed to catch my breath when I stood on the top of the boulder.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Demoiselles - Le Repos du Sphinx 7A


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