Saturday, September 10, 2016

September 10, 2016 - It's not called soccer, but "Futebol".

We were all up early because my wife's mom was who was on a visit had to leave for a long drive back to Germany.
That's why I arrived early in Franchard Raymond. No climbers, no hikers, just me and the forest.
I went to Franchard Raymond, because I finally wanted to try "Futebol" and I was determined to do it.

On my way I made a small detour to pass the other sector for a short warmup in "Traîne Pas sur les Pieds".
It ended up being a very short warmup because I did it on my second attempt.
Easy 7A, but good to loosen the skin.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Raymond - Traîne Pas sur les Pieds 7A




Now that I was warmed up and my skin loosened, I went straight to "Futebol".
Twice I had already stood before the boulder, but for some reasons never went for it.
Now it was my main goal of the day.

It didn't take long before I got the hang of all the moves up to the last one.
The last one, however, is a very far completely stretched out move to a bad sloper. Numerous time I fell at that last move and I even came close to giving up and come back when it's colder.
But then I decided to really go for it on the last move and give it even more than I had.
I was becoming nervous, a little afraid of making a bad fall, but I made it and climbed to the top.

It truly is a gem, a classic!

Fontainebleau - Franchard Raymond - Futebol 7B+




In the afternoon I went back to Franchard Raymond to try "Etalonnage Physique", a quite recent problem along the blue path, not far from "The Big G".
The first couple of moves started out really well, but the last moves appears to the crux.
No matter what I tried, I just couldn't make it to the last good hold.
I was getting tired and in need for something else, something easier, but I will definitely come back for this one.

At the start of the area is a small cluster of low boulders where I was only able to do "Un Peu de Trois".
Not hard, but the last moves on the bad dusty arete were a bit morpho and I had to go deep to make it all the way up.
Soft 7A, or hard 6C+. I choose soft 7A.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Raymond - Un Peu et Trois 7A(6C)




Not far from there is the boulder with "Délire de Forme", a traverse, but on the picture the boulder looked beautiful. In real life it is too.
It's a traverse of about 10m, but all jugs up to the end where the topout still felt tricky.
I was already tired and it are a lot of moves, but still, as I secretly kind of expected, I was able to flash it. Even though the last moves were a bit sketchy.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Raymond - Délire de Formes 7A


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