Thursday, September 15, 2016

September 15, 2016 - Play the game.

What a difference!

It had rained all night and morning, but when I was driving home from work, the streets looked mostly dry.
I know, I wrote that I needed a rest, but the temperature was a very enjoyable 20°C and after diner I took my chances and went to Gorge aux Châts, hoping that most boulders would be dry there.
My mind was set on trying "Double Jeu-té" because it only requires two holds and my intention for not really climbing would still count. I was simply going to play a game.

"Double Jeu-té" consists of two executive dynos.
One jump to the big flat hold and then a not so far but scary sideways two handed jump to a flat ledge.
I always used to think that the dyno was from the first flat hold straight to the top, which looks like miles away, but apparently, it's not.

It's a quite scary jump to the right, because I feared taking a swing and falling onto the small boulder to the right of it.
Luckily I didn't and I stuck the jump after a couple of tries and building up confidence.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Le Jeu-Té Diagonal 7A




All in all it took me less than 10 minutes and as the rain had washed the boulders, the friction was close to perfect and I was hungry for more.

I moved over to the boulder of the classic "Sa Pelle au Logis" to try it's variation "Variaspal".
"Variaspal" starts off at a mushroom shaped hold, traverses to the left and finishes in "Sa Pelle au Logis".
I had done the latter already a couple of times, so "Variaspal" felt not that hard and was done quickly.
Both problems were done in less than half an hour, and even though I still had time, I packed up and went home.
All in all, I had decided to rest.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Variaspal 7A


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