Last time I tried "Aérosol" I fell off the topout a couple of times but had all the other moves programmed in my head. I could do them over and over.
Today, after falling off the top at each try, I decided to try something else.
I took a deep breath and sent the very nice "Aérosol".
The music in the background of the video is not mine, but from a small group of 'louder' climbers who probably thought it would be a nice gesture to let all the people around enjoy their music with them.
The sitstart is a bit annoying after so many tries, but the moves that come after are totally worth it!
Fontainebleau - Bas Cuvier - Aérosol 7B+
The short evening session took me to Rocher Guichot.
Right next to the parking and "La Duègne (assis)" is on the backside of the first big boulder of the small area.
It would give me enough time to try it without hurrying.
On my previous attempts I always tried to dynamically go straight for the big crimp, but I had just seen a video of Jan (De Smit) and Manuel (Marquès) taking a bad sloper first to pull them towards it.
I could use the extra time to work out that move before giving it a real attempt.
As soon as I was able to slightly take the crimp, I went from the start.
Got the crimp, pulled on and took the far left pocket, slapped next to the better sloper, slipped and came out.
I brushed the holds, repeated the sequence in my mind and took a deep breath.
It all went smoothly the try after.
Very nice moves. The standstart (6A) is a beauty on its own.
Right next to the parking and "La Duègne (assis)" is on the backside of the first big boulder of the small area.
It would give me enough time to try it without hurrying.
On my previous attempts I always tried to dynamically go straight for the big crimp, but I had just seen a video of Jan (De Smit) and Manuel (Marquès) taking a bad sloper first to pull them towards it.
I could use the extra time to work out that move before giving it a real attempt.
As soon as I was able to slightly take the crimp, I went from the start.
Got the crimp, pulled on and took the far left pocket, slapped next to the better sloper, slipped and came out.
I brushed the holds, repeated the sequence in my mind and took a deep breath.
It all went smoothly the try after.
Very nice moves. The standstart (6A) is a beauty on its own.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Guichot - La Duègne (assis) 7B
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