Sunday, September 25, 2016

September 25, 2016 - No to the needle.

After I woke up and opened my eyes, I immediately checked the weather forecast.
I was astonished to see that there was a 70% chance of rain starting from 10 o'clock.
Even though it was still half dark, I could make out a clear open sky and it was hard to imagine that rain would be there in only a few hours.
I got straight out of, had breakfast and went immediately to Restant du Long Rocher.
It was barely 8h45 when I arrived. The sky was still clear and the sun was shining. It looked like perfect weather to be outside.

One of the sectors closest to the parking is the one with "Vigipirate".
A typical gym style roof with small pockets that I had tried once before, but couldn't link the two overlapping parts that I was able to do.
My first stop was, of course, "Vigipirate".

It was long ago that I tried it, so I had to rework all the moves again.
Not easy when there seem to be footholds everywhere but you you have to pick just that one out.
This felt really hard for me.

Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher - Vigipirate 7A




"Vigipirate" had taken a lot of energy from me and I wanted to try something different in style now.

"The Fire King" and "Le Papillon" are two of the problems that have been opened by Igor (Depoorter) and Kobe (Bellinckx).
Different style, not high but quite exposed.

"The Fire King" has a bit of an awkward start, but what follows are some nice moves towards the right.
Nice one, but maybe on the soft side for the grade.

Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher - The Fire King 7A




"Le Papillon" sitstarts slightly left and exits directly.
It seemed the most logical way to go, but I'm not sure if what I did was correct.
With already having done the mantle above, it went smoothly. Maybe too smooth ?

Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher - Le Papillon 7A




In the meantime clouds had gathered and it looked like it could start raining any minute now.
I didn't want to go too far anymore, so "La Boule (assis)" was a logical choice.
This looked nicer than on the picture I had seen. With moves that seemed to be my style.

On my flash attempt, I fell off the mantle due to the better hold being covered with needles. It's Autumn.
On my second attempt, my foot slipped off the hold, but third go, good go.
Seems soft at the start, but the mantle makes up for it.

Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher - La Boule (assis) 7A




By now the clouds were becoming very grey, but I took the risk to still walk to "La Boullasse", an overhanging prow with slopers.
It is exposed, but still I gave it some tries. Unfortunately spraining my ankle again when coming down.
It had slightly started raining anyway and it didn't stop for a couple of hours.

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