Wednesday, September 7, 2016

September 07, 2016 - What's in a name ?

The days are getting shorter and on the way home from work, I was about what I could try nearby and not too far from the parking to save some time.
It's one of the most classical problems of the area, yet I had only given it a try once many years ago.
The usual crowdedness kept from trying it ever since, but today it came into my mind and it seemed like a good idea.

I could hear some distant chatter, but the place looked deserted.
When I installed the crashpad, I remembered why I hadn't tried it more. The two boulders underneath it make the problem a bit exposed.
I stayed calm and focussed and gave it a try. Bad foot placement and I jumped off.
After checking the holds again and imagining the moves, I gave it a second try and climbed all the way to the top.
I wonder why I never did this earlier.

Very nice moves with a quite scary mantle at the top. A real classic!

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Le Flippeur 7A




"Le Flippeur" was done sooner than expected so I still had some time, and even more motivation, left.
I remembered a sitstart of red number 13 at only 10 meters from there. I gave it a try once but it felt just too hard at that time.
With all the motivation inside me, I went for it and worked out the moves.
The first couple of moves are great to execute. Each one of them is nice and I just can't describe why. I guess the video will speak for itself.
The moves separately were going good and I saved the sequence into my mind.
Every move felt great and it all went smoothly to the top.

Not the most popular problem of the area, but certainly one that I can recommend.
I guess Jo Montchaussée couldn't agree on the name of it, but hey, what's in a name ?

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - C'est Assis mais C'est Tassé / Cavernicole 7A+


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