Saturday, April 28, 2018

April 28, 2018 - The desire.

A bunch of friends from my birthplace Grimbergen in Belgium are here for the long weekend, and we all went to the Diplodocus area.
Maarten, Perre, Dave, Bruno and Svenneke are only a few of the old Grimbergen crew that used to meet up regularly for some nice climbing weekends in the forest.

There's only a handful of harder problems in Diplodocus and most of them are quickly crowded, but luckily that's not the case for "Vir Desirium" (Latin for "desire", so I read), an old project that was my main goal of the day. The hardest problem in Diplodocus.

I had only tried it one session before, and I remember that I was completely stuck and it felt way too hard.
Looking at Manuel Marquès climbing on a video he posted, it didn't seem that hard, but then again, that was Manuel climbing it.
On my video, I have that same impression, but I can tell you that it definitely didn't feel as easy as it looks. Don't be fooled like I was.
It does basically come down to two very hard moves that have to be executed perfectly that make the grade. Taking the intermediate crimp under the roof to pull on through to the far sidepull.
From there on it's certainly not over yet, but there's room for small errors and corrections.

I'm glad to have finished this one off!

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - Vir Desiderium 7C




The remainder of the day, I spent with the guys doing the blue circuit in Diplodocus and some of the beautiful red ones in Rocher Guichot.
I did nearly all of them on my first or second attempt, but I had a fun nostalgic time with the guys and I considered it as good training.

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