Saturday, December 26, 2015

December 26, 2015 - Holdhunter.

When I finished climbing yesterday, I was actually pretty glad that I had to go to Belgium this morning. It meant that I would not be able to climb and would be finally obliged to rest.

When I left home, I especially took the route that goes via Melun, so I would have to pass by Rocher Canon. I just couldn't resist to the calls of the forest and as it was still early, chances were high that "Chasseur de Prises" would be unoccupied.
"Chasseur de Prises" is a classic 7A in the area, I had worked once in it a couple of years ago.
Only once, because it is such an all time classic that most of the time it is either wet or other people are already trying it.
As most of you know, I'm not the type who will join a group of climbers to wait for my turn. No, there is enough other rock around to waste time waiting.

The area was still deserted and I found the boulder completely dry and unoccupied.
It made me a little nervous because it meant that it had to happen now which gave me stress. Luckily this feeling faded while stretching, taking my time to look at the "holds" again  and imagining doing the moves.
I gave myself half an hour because I still had a long drive ahead of me.
It took me only 5 minutes to practice the start and the first moves. Then I setup the camera and went for it.
It went like a charm, the conditions were great! I was able to pull up on the bad slopers like it was nothing. I had time to look at where to put my feet.
I was really relieved to have done it that fast.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Canon - Chasseur de Prises 7A




I still had some time left so I looked for something that I could quickly try.
Not far, next to "Le Chaînon Manquant", there is also a small 7A that you hardly notice is there.
It's the sitstart of blue 3 and it looks ... easy ...
I opened the crashpad, installed the camera and set off, but slapped next to the big jug.
I would have flashed it if I wouldn't have missed the jug, so it became a second GO.
I truly have my doubts about the grade here, this went all a bit too easy, but anyway ...

Fontainebleau - Rocher Canon - Le Bombé (assis droite) 7A


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