December 21, 2015 - First day of Winter ?

It's supposed to be the first day of the Winter, yet it feels like the Spring is already there.
It was a beautiful day with mostly a blue sky, up to 13°C and a nice breeze up on the hills blowing all boulders dry from yesterday evening's rain.

There are only a handful of boulders up there on the hill of Coquibus Grandes Vallées, but they have quite some problems on them and it's certainly worth the visit. Especially when you like to have your peace and quiet.
One of the boulders there has a long very low roof with a 7A and a 7A+(7B) in it. Both share the same start and you have to start so deep under the roof that you feel like being on the edge of bouldering and doing speleology.
For both problems the start was the most difficult for me, even though it has jugs. My problem was that it hurts my hamstring when doing heelhooks with the left foot.
For the 7A, "En Dessous de Tout", it took me some time trying to find a method where I could put the least weight on my left heelhook, or trying to avoid it completely. Once I found a method, I went straight for the top.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - En Dessous de Tout 7A

Now that I had found my sequence for the first moves in the roof, I looked at the holds and moves to do the exit for the 7A+(7B), "L'Etroit Mousse, plus Bas que Terre". Saying the name out loud alone, feels like a 7A+(7B) :-) ...

I practiced the link from "En Dessous de Tout" into "L'Etroit Mousse, ..." only once and that felt OK.

After 2 minutes rest I did the harder exit first go, even though I almost came out at the end.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - L'Etroit Mousse, plus Bas que Terre 7A+(7B)

Not far from there is another beautiful, but much higher, roof with 2 7A's on it. "Perle de Crête 1" and "Grimpe Etait Toit". I went to have a look at it, and the roof is a beauty.

Fot these, I thanked, with the idea in the back of my head to come back for it with an extra crashpad and maybe a friend to spot. I didn't feel like taking any risks, even though any other day I probably would have gone for it.

My mind was set for something else. "Double Détente" in Mont Pivot. I had a video of it, or at least I THOUGHT I had a video of it.

Yesterday I got a message from a Belgian fellow climber who made the friendly remark that the video more likely showed "Red Heat". The problem at about 0,5m to the right of it. He included a link to a video that also showed "Double Détente", and I had a look at the description of "Red Heat" on bleau.info.

I immediately agreed with him and made the promise to go and do "Double Détente" correctly soon.
I kept my promise and did it today.

I must say that at the time, I couldn't find any video material from the "Double Détente", and looking at the few small pictures I could find, I really had the impression that what I did was correct and that maybe it was (very) easy for the grade. Dyno's are always difficult to grade.
Now, on the other hand, there is a nice picture sequence available on the site.

"Red Heat" is supposed to be 6A+, but what I did there was in no way 6A+. I would say 6C the least, but anyway.

Here is the video of "Red Heat" (at least wearing the hat fits with the name of the problem):

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - Red Heat 6B(6C)

And here is the "correct" version of "Double Détente":

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - Double Détente 7A+(7B)