Sunday, December 20, 2015

December 20, 2015 - Don't take the blue pill, but follow the blue path!

Rocher Saint-Germain will always one of my favourite areas, but the grading there is so tight! It's always a kind of "wake-up-call" when I go climbing there. Just like a couple of weeks ago.
Today however it all went a bit better and I could actually finish some stuff.

It started today with "Si t'es Petit, sois Technique". An isolated boulder at only 2 minutes walking distance from the parking of the "Belle Croix". It was more or less on the way to the main area, so I decided to warm up in that one.
I know, warming up in a 7B(7A+) is not such a good idea, but it's a dyno and it would get me warm. I did follow my wife's advice and against my habits, I stretched my arm. It can only be better for the elbow, which actually still hurts a bit.
I had seen pictures of the boulder and a video of the problem, so I knew what to look for, but when I found it, I stood in awe. I felt pretty much the same as when I saw the boulder with "Le Cadeau" in Rocher du Télégraphe for the first time. Visually they are beautiful boulders!!
At first inspection and feel, it seemed much harder than I saw on the video (as usual). The right arete is really round and you need the best conditions to stick that round sloper and set off for the jump.
After a couple of really bad tries, not even getting to the point where you start the jump, it crossed my mind to try again on my way back. Luckily I gave it another try and was able to jump for the first time. I knew now that it could happen any time now, so I stayed and tried some more.
Not even 10 minutes later, I stood on top. This is a beautiful boulder with a beautiful problem!!

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique 7B(7A+)




The next problem I had on my list for today was "Mégalight", but that would be for later in the day.
My plan was to take the "Route de Luxembourg" path to the other end of the area and follow the blue path N°4 back up, passing tons of boulders and problems on my way so I could basically climb my way back to the parking.

I must still have been too euphoric after having done "Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique", because ... <DANG> Wake-up-call!! 
I tried a lot of problems on my way, but none topped. Some due to my elbow problems, because pinching can still really hurt, and some due to not being strong enough, or not having the technique, or maybe not being patient enough.
Anyway, I arrived at "Mégalight", and I knew that I was willing to spend some time in this if necessary. I felt a little bit disappointed a couple of weeks ago when I had to leave it unfinished. But I was determined to come back for it.
Now was the time. It took me not even half an hour.
Somehow, the trick for me was taking the left arete with the pink included instead of just 3 fingers.
By adding my pink finger, I was able to squeeze the hold more, go deeper down in my legs and jump further. I was psyched having finished it.
The 2 problems that I really wanted to do today were done!! 

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Mégalight 7B




After having done that, all that I would still be able to do now would be extras, some bonuses.
"Minilithe" was one of them, and also the last for today.
"Minilithe" is not the nicest problem around, and it's certainly not something I would make a detour for, but being only 10m from where I was at that moment, it was a nice extra, a nice bonus.
Basically it's a one-move problem, but just hard enough to make it a soft 7A.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Minilithe 7A




I continued following the blue path, trying some problems on my way, but not topping anything anymore. 
When I arrived at the car again on the top of the hill, I felt that I had already lost a lot of energy. Too much maybe, but I still felt like climbing.
I parked at Rocher Canon, where I followed the blue path N°12 to Rocher Canon Ouest, but the boulders there were wet or too humid.

I drove to the other parking of Rocher Saint-Germain, but crossed the big road to follow the blue path N°4 in the other direction to Cassepot Roches Grises where I did quite some good tries in "Double Axel", but my skin stopped me after a while. I needed a rest, or maybe simply call it a day, but I didn't.
I took the car and went to Roche d'Hercule, where I followed the blue path N°1 to the top of the hill, but only just to find the roof of "Trop Beau Pour Toit" soaking wet. 
The blue path N°1 took me then a little further up to "Fenbren le Fou", but the top holds were too humid to give it a try. I didn't want to risk a slipper and make an uncontrolled fall from that height!

I decided to go home, but on my way, I couldn't resist and stopped at Rocher de la Reine where I sat in "Napoleon (assis)", but I was too exhausted to get my ass of the ground. It was done for today.

When you come to Fontainebleau, follow the blue paths, you will find some really nice boulders on your way!!

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