Monday, July 31, 2023

July 31, 2023 - Full line executed.

I arranged with Olaf (Deppe) to meet again at the "Bicarbuartion" roof so I could join him with finally trying the full line. Yesterday I was shut down by "Equilibrium", always falling off the last and hardest move, so my fingers were wrecked and I didn't feel in good shape when I arrived at the roof. Nevertheless, I didn't set any expectations for sending "Bicarburation", but rather was there with a mindset seeing where I will end up.
After having done "A l'Envers" a couple of days ago, I still remembered the moves of the crux, but took some time to work it out again, so there would be less room for doubt when getting there from the start. When an English couple arrived with their kid and dog, Olaf's dog and theirs got into a short fight, hard enough for the English dog to be wounded on its paw and while they were all taking care of it, I used the occasion of the quietness at the roof itself to do a first try in "Bicarburation" from the start. I climbed through the first part quickly and was still feeling better than expected when I arrived at the bat hang rest, so I decided to not stay there too long, chalked up one hand and continued on. To my pleasant surprise, I stuck the crux, stayed calm and focused, and without seemingly too much effort worked my way to the end and topped out.
It took several minutes to realize and sink in that I had just done "Bicarburation".

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Bicarburation 8A



Somehow, the feeling of not being in good shape had dissipated and thanks to adrenalin, my fingers didn't hurt anymore. There are stil so many variations on that roof and I chose to try "A l'Endroit", which I was able to flash.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - A l'Endroit 7A+(7A)



In between a few short rain showers, I finished my session with a flash of "Le Bi Yo Back".
Unfortunately, the rain showers followed closer and closer to each other and the boulder became too wet to attempt another line. Still more than enough to come back for.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Yo Back 7A+

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