Saturday, July 22, 2023

July 22, 2023 - Not my crack.

Pieter and I wanted to do something different and decided to go try "Pure Line" in Rocher du Télégraphe. What attracted us the most about this seven meters long crack, was the fact that it would definitely be less hot in the shady cave where the crack runs through from start to finish. "Pure Line" being a crack that can only be climbed using proper hand jams, makes it a very atypical for Bleau, an otherwise almost non existent style of climbing in the wider region. Unlike Pieter, I had never tried such style of climbing and he had to show me how to tape the hands for protection. 
I have to be honest and admit that I totally underestimated this style of climbing. It was way harder than I had anticipated and we only managed to do half moves, in other words, we could lift our asses from the ground in some places, let go of one hand, but not even lock it back in the crack. Even after an hour of trying, there was barely any progress. I must say that I have gained huge respect for those that are to climb in this way. Big up to the few who can climb this whole seven meters long crack, I am definitely not one of them.

Trying one of the last moves of "Pure Line", pictured by Pieter.

After a while, we both agreed that this wasn't our thing and walked back along the blue path on the top of the hill, knowing that we would pass by the dangerously exposed boulder of "Rascar Capac". 
Due to the scary aspect of the uncertain topout and the scare factor, we had a little doubt about trying "Rascar Capac", but as we were there now, I decided to give it a go and was able to flash it with relative ease. Pieter didn't feel certain enough about the last and most scary move, so gave it a pass. I still tried the harder "Bachibouzouk", and even though I'm sure that I can do it easily, I also chickened out on that one. Maybe another time, with better skin and a fresher body, and maybe a second spotter.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Rascar Capac 7A

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