Thursday, July 27, 2023

July 27, 2023 - In the pocket.

Last week, I had agreed with Olaf (Deppe) to meet him again at "Bicarburation" roof, in Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie, when he would work the line again. My goal before trying that long line, was to first try the slightly shorter "A l'Envers", which has the same crux. At least, if I would be able to that one, it would be a step closer to "Bicarburation" itself in the future.
We both worked in the same crux with the two finger pockets, which helped in defining and redefining beta and learning from each other and to take needed rests in between attempts. After some time, and after progressing slowly but steadily, I decided to always start from the start of "A l'Envers" instead of two moves in. I was confident about the first two moves, and knew that if I would get passed the crux, I shouldn't fall off anymore as long as I stayed focused. I just didn't want to do the crux and then come off to try from the actual start, risking to not being able to repeat the crux again. This turned out to be the right decision, because during one of those attempts, I suddenly managed to stick the crux, losing a lot of power and energy, but I stayed calm and continued on to the end. It was a great feeling to achieve this goal, it was in the pocket.
A short break later, I still quite easily managed to do the first part of "Bicarburation" until the bat hang rest, the point that is two moves in from "A l'Envers". It means that doing the whole line should be within reach, even though I will have to learn how to rest properly and actually regain energy instead of losing some.
Olaf had a good session with again good progress. "Bicarburation" might be in his pocket not very long from now.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - A l'Envers 7C+(7C)

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