Friday, August 4, 2023

August O4, 2023 - Monsoon.

The past few days it had been raining a lot, not just a lot, but really a lot, like a monsoon. At least it's good for the forest, even though I doubt that it still wasn't enough. After all this rain, I didn't expect a lot from climbing today, so I didn't really set any expectations besides a few problems that I wanted to try in Franchard Hautes Plaines, I know, not the most ideal area after rain.
I especially wanted to try "Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels" but warmed up on the nearby boulder of "Pulpfriction". The original way, as done by convention by the opener, turned out to be a true wake-up call for my body. A hard first move, followed by a very hard second move where you almost have to plank sideways to be able to reach toehooks on the right, and ending with a delicate finish in a small slab. Fun problem nevertheless, and definitely worth 7B if you ask me.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Pulpfriction 7B(7A+)



Even though I couldn't even get my butt off the ground when I very briefly tried "Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels", and I expected it to be not much better this time, I did manage to do the first few moves into position for the awkward dyno. The dyno itself seems to be the real crux here and I gave up on it quite quickly. This classic problem has made it back on to my list though.
To finish the session, I moved over to the boulder of "Coup d'Ignorance", only to find it with wet starting holds of the original sitstart. As it didn't look like they would be dry any time soon, I worked the last part of "Coup d'Ignorance (gauche)" and discovered that the standing start with the arete felt like a good 7A+ on itself. I'm quite sure that the original sitstart must be a hard 7B. Anyway, the standing start with the arete was definitely worth it, very fun to do on its own.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Hautes Plaines - Coup d'Ignorance (gauche debout) 7A+

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