Wednesday, April 20, 2022

April 20, 2022 - Out of credit.

I had planned to check out some of the new boulders opened by Manuel Marquès in Franchard Ermitage, but when I was walking on the route Amedée, in the valley between Franchard Druides and Ermitage, I decided to walk on to "Mort à Crédit" to try its sitstart instead. It wasn't far away and being on the North side of a hill, it would be probably be less warm there. I had done the standing start back in August 2016 and had returned only once to try the sitstart. I had a vague memory of it being too reachy, but hoped that maybe this time I would have longer arms.
Of course, my arms aren't longer, but after working the far move to the small vertical crimp left hand, I figured out how to reach far enough and do the next move. Coming from the sitstart, it proved to be not convenient and needed quite some attempts to do it again, only to fall off the slopey topout again. The more I tried, the more physical it started to feel, but after persisting for some time, I finally made my way to the top.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Druides - Mort à Crédit (assis) 7B



I still went to look at few of the new boulders in Franchard Ermitage, but it was starting to get too warm on that South side of the hill on the other side of the valley, so I chose to spend some time in the cool shade of the big roof of "Le Toit", of which I still had to do the harder exit on the right, "Le Toit (droite)". I came pretty close to doing it, but after many attempts, had to throw in the towel. My skin, fingers and arms were out of credit. It will be a good problem to go back for during another warm Spring or hot Summer day.

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