Sunday, April 17, 2022

April 17, 2022 - Undisclosed.

What better way is there to avoid the Easter crowd than visit an undisclosed area? Indeed, where I climbed with Pieter today is on privately owned forest land and hence will most likely remain undisclosed, or at least not be published to the open public.
It was there that I brushed a few boulders with Jan and Gina a few weeks ago, and another one alone last Wednesday when it was raining. Besides one small deforested sector, it is a dense part of the forest and I was hoping to climb the freshly brushed boulder after a few sunny and dry days.
Before going to the new boulder we stopped at the small deforested sector where I was keen on trying a boulder featuring a thin crack and a seemingly hard mantle, as far as I know, opened by David Evrard and/or Stéphan Denys. With no trees offering shade, it dries very quick, but at the same time made it a very hot place to, even before noon. To my great pleasure, I did what I call "Fissure" quite quickly, but must admit that it wasn't a give-away, it definitely felt hard for the proposed 7A. To me it felt more like 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Undisclosed - Fissure 7A+(7A)



It was starting to get too hot there for Pieter and he preferred to move on to something else in the shade. The small corridor between "Fissure" and the boulder next to it was shady and allowed for a small refreshing breeze to pass from time to time. We did a few easier slabs, each about one meter apart from each other. The fourth one, was the hardest, very technical and required very subtle moving. It's the only one that I repeated again for the video, just because the moves were so nice. Slab masters might disagree, but being my anti-style, it was hard to put a grade on it, but I will go with 6C, at least that's how it felt for me. 

Fontainebleau - Undisclosed - Dalle Technique 6C



After showing Pieter some of the huge still unopened boulders in the far part of the small valley, we finally stopped at the boulder that I brushed last Wednesday. I was highly motivated and did a direct version fast. It didn't feel too hard, but as Pieter wasn't able to do the first move, I gave it a personal grade of 7A(6C+), the grade probably depending on how hard one likes to pull on crimps.

Fontainebleau - Undisclosed - Regletterie 6C+(7A)



The right variant is slightly harder, and somewhat eliminate, but it was fun to do.
Once again, very hard to grade, but we had fun and that's what counts, especially knowing that there are hundreds of other climbers packed in other areas and we didn't see a single soul.

Fontainebleau - Undisclosed - Regletterie (droite) 7A(6C+)

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