After doing some household in the morning, I left for the forest around noon.
The number of cars that were already parked at Gorge aux Châts proved that it was going to be a busy day in the forest.
But I had a plan to avoid the crowds. I was heading for Mare aux Corneilles, a small redeveloped area not far from Rocher de la Salamandre.
My chances to have some peace and quiet there were high.
It turned out to be not the best idea, because most of the boulders there are in the shade and were still humid or simply wet.
The most interesting problems were either too wet or too exposed to try alone, but I was able to finish two problems that I wanted to try too.
The conditions were far from in favour, but good enough for both.
The first one was "Angleterre à Terre". A nice warmup with a sketchy start because of the flake for the right hand moves a bit.
It almost feels like you will rip out of the rock as soon as you apply pressure to lift your but from off the ground.
Fontainebleau - Mare aux Corneilles - Angleterre à Terre 7A(6C+)
Right behind "Angleterre à Terre", the boulder of "Jet Stream" looked wet, but the holds felt okay. Not good, but just okay.
Apart from the first two moves, not too hard for the grade, but a fun thing to do.
Too bad for the dab in the swing, but I didn't even notice it at that moment.
Apart from the first two moves, not too hard for the grade, but a fun thing to do.
Too bad for the dab in the swing, but I didn't even notice it at that moment.
Fontainebleau - Mare aux Corneilles - Jet Stream 7A
So far for the climbable problems in that sector, so I had to move.
I didn't feel like much driving anymore so I decided to go to Rocher de la Salamandre nearby.
The boulders are all spread out and unfortunately most of them, being on the North side of the hill, were too wet.
Even "Besoin d'Elle" which is directed South was in a state of no-go. Except of "Nouvelle Vague" right next to it.
I had done it quite quickly in the Summer of 2015 and remembered that it was quite a fun dyno.
Even though I already had a video of it, I recorded it again, but this time from a different angle.
Went on my second attempt this time.
I didn't feel like much driving anymore so I decided to go to Rocher de la Salamandre nearby.
The boulders are all spread out and unfortunately most of them, being on the North side of the hill, were too wet.
Even "Besoin d'Elle" which is directed South was in a state of no-go. Except of "Nouvelle Vague" right next to it.
I had done it quite quickly in the Summer of 2015 and remembered that it was quite a fun dyno.
Even though I already had a video of it, I recorded it again, but this time from a different angle.
Went on my second attempt this time.
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Salamandre - Nouvelle Vague 7B(7B+) (repeat)
The small sector of "Menumental" was also too humid so I ended the long walk with doing only one problem.
It wasn't too bad, because I enjoyed the long walk in that beautiful part of the forest.
The air smelled like Spring and I could feel and hear the forest waking up from it's hibernation.
The animals feel it too, out of which also the spiders, the bugs, the ticks, the flies, the mosquitos, the snakes, ... Yes, I do love the forest!
On my way to the car, when I left the shady North side and entered the sunny areas again, the difference in temperature felt huge.
The sun was really warming up the forest and the smell even changed to Summer at some points.
It gave me energy again before I went home, I decided to park at the big parking of Gorges de Franchard on the way.
It was quite crowded there of course, but I didn't care at that moment. I expected that, but I wanted to climb a bit in the sun.
I remembered a quite new small steep overhanging prow in Franchard Ermitage and knew that it would be in the sun now.
There are two lines on the small boulder.
Both start with the big pocket, but the 6C, "Barre à Bâbord" follows the left arete and the 7A, "Basique" follows the right one.
I came to try "Basique" once briefly, days after it was published, but I couldn't figure out what to do.
I didn't even bother trying "Barre à Babord" back then.
Now I did and flashed it quite easily, thanks to my long arms I guess.
It wasn't too bad, because I enjoyed the long walk in that beautiful part of the forest.
The air smelled like Spring and I could feel and hear the forest waking up from it's hibernation.
The animals feel it too, out of which also the spiders, the bugs, the ticks, the flies, the mosquitos, the snakes, ... Yes, I do love the forest!
On my way to the car, when I left the shady North side and entered the sunny areas again, the difference in temperature felt huge.
The sun was really warming up the forest and the smell even changed to Summer at some points.
It gave me energy again before I went home, I decided to park at the big parking of Gorges de Franchard on the way.
It was quite crowded there of course, but I didn't care at that moment. I expected that, but I wanted to climb a bit in the sun.
I remembered a quite new small steep overhanging prow in Franchard Ermitage and knew that it would be in the sun now.
There are two lines on the small boulder.
Both start with the big pocket, but the 6C, "Barre à Bâbord" follows the left arete and the 7A, "Basique" follows the right one.
I came to try "Basique" once briefly, days after it was published, but I couldn't figure out what to do.
I didn't even bother trying "Barre à Babord" back then.
Now I did and flashed it quite easily, thanks to my long arms I guess.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Barre à Bâbord 6C
This time I spent some more effort in "Basique", finally found the method and sent it quicker than I had expected.
The problem looks stupid at first, but in the end it's a fun thing to do. Not to be underestimated.
The problem looks stupid at first, but in the end it's a fun thing to do. Not to be underestimated.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Ermitage - Basique 7A
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