Friday, October 21, 2016

October 21, 2016 - The fourth.

I had another day off today, but unfortunately it was dominated by rain showers.
Quite early this morning I was able to do a few tries in "Compresse Nez (droite)" in Apremont Envers until it started raining lightly.
I wanted to wait it out, but soon the sky became a darker grey and the rain gradually harder so I decided to go back home.
In my village, at barely 20km from there it apparently had rained much less and after doing some cleaning in the house, I went do Diplodocus hoping to find some dry sandstone.

In Diplodocus there are only 3 problems in the seventh grade, out of which a 7C, "Vir Desiderium".
Unfortunately, short light showers had kept everything a bit humid, and there where it looked dry, it was in no good conditions.
The far sloper of "Vir Desiderium" was wet, so I decided to repeat the dyno of "Dynosaure" for the fun of it.
The dyno is not as easy as the grade would want you to believe, but as I did this a couple of times already, it went fast.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - Dynosaure 6C




One of the other seventh grade problems, "Parade aux Hydes", also ends in the blue problem, just like "Dynosaure" does, but it sitstarts left under the yellow problem, traverses low to the right and exits in the bleu problem.
I couldn't do it the way Manuel (Marquès) does it in his video on bleau.info, but I did it with a dyno as for "Dynosaure".
Two different methods for actually the same line, but also two different grades according to me.
My method is 7A max and Manuel's method feels like hard 7A+.
I notified Jean-Pierre from bleau.info about this and for the time being I named my method "La Parade du Dynosaure" and graded it 7A, maybe even soft for the grade.

If you would consider the two different methods as a convention, then you can add another seventh grade problem to Diplodocus. The fourth.

Fontainebleau - Diplodocus - La Parade du Dynosaure 7A


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