Sunday, October 2, 2016

October 02, 2016 - Le Brexit.

"Le Brexit" has only been published just today.
It's a variation on "Haute Trahison", the dug out roof at only 50m from the parking of Rocher des Souris.

The first moves are the same as for "Haute Trahison", but you are not allowed to use the high big jug. Then, using a pinch right hand you have to traverse under the roof and exit at the right side of the prow, with the crack left hand.
I still had the moves of "Haute Trahison" memorised, so I only had to look at how to traverse under the roof.
There seemed to be different possibilities, and they all are not that difficult.
It's all about pulling on good holds with one small crux under the roof into good holds again. You just have to execute them one after the other to not loose time.
I would say the same grade as for "Haute Trahison", but for me that also felt like a 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Rocher des Souris - Le Brexit 7A+


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