Saturday, October 15, 2016

October 15, 2016 - Going big.

We had a lot of rain the last couple of days, but today I was going to go big!
So, this morning, I took the kids to "France Miniature", a kind of amusement park where famous places from the whole of France are shown in small scale.
A couple of months ago I won 2 tickets for it with a local radio show, and as the tickets had to be used before November and it was only an hour drive away, it seemed like a good plan.
We were all going big!

After having seen the whole of France in only a few hours, I went to Rocher du Potala, hoping to find some dry boulders.
The forest being wet, the temperature rising, little to no wind, it makes a perfect recipe for condensation.
It turned out to be not too bad, but the boulders (or the sides of them) that didn't catch sun were still wet.
I didn't really have a plan, so it didn't matter.  I just wanted to climb a bit.

I ended up at "Les Doigts dans le Nez" and it looked to be in good condition.
The first time I did it was in 2011 and I remember that it took me a lot of tries.
Last time I was in Rocher du Potala, I wanted to repeat it for the video, but I wasn't able to.
Today it went relatively fast, this side of the boulder had dried up nicely.

7A or 7A+, the conditions decide.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Les Doigts dans le Nez 7A(7A+)




On the way back, I stopped and looked at a possibly nice lowball dyno on the boulder of what is now blue 28.
The blue circuit has been repainted and what is now blue 28, used to be blue 20.
I couldn't resist and started trying the dyno.

Sitstart (without crashpad) just left of blue 28, with both hands on a low oblique hold and dyno directly to the jug of 28 blue.

It's a game, a fun jump, hard to give it a grade, but I would guess soft 7A(6C+).

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Le Jeu du Bleu 7A(6C+)


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