Igor had sent me a message that they were going to Apremont (Portes de) Désert, but I rather felt like climbing on my own.
The air felt more humid than the previous days and the friction wasn't as perfect, but it was certainly good, so I set my mind on climbing on slopers.
I had three problems in mind that I definitely wanted to try: "L'Ami Dal" (an old project that I started trying with Pieter), "Pensées Cachées" (tried it a couple of months ago, but it was over 30°C and couldn't hold on to the slopers) and "Mister Dynamite" (a dyno to 2 slopers that need to stick).
I started off with "L'Ami d'Al", the one that I started trying with Pieter a year and a half ago.
We actually had one session in bad conditions and one in quite good conditions. We could do the short traverse to the left up the arete, but never managed to get over it.
Even today with very good conditions, I still got stuck at the same point.
I ended up with doing it's little sister "L'Amie Six" that rocks over the arete directly up without going to the left first.
It is a lot easier, but still felt much harder than the given 6A.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière - L'Amie Six 6A
To get into the right flow, I decided to repeat "Undertow" for the video.
It was my second 7th grade problem back in 2008.
The conditions were so good that I was able to repeat it on my first attempt.
It was my second 7th grade problem back in 2008.
The conditions were so good that I was able to repeat it on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière - Undertow 7A(6C)
Also "Right Flow" went down on my first attempt.
It starts and climbs as for "Undertow", but continues going right to exit at the angle.
For me this felt easier than "Undertow", but both feel like 7A, on the soft side.
It starts and climbs as for "Undertow", but continues going right to exit at the angle.
For me this felt easier than "Undertow", but both feel like 7A, on the soft side.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière - Right Flow 7A
Now it was time for "Pensées Cachées".
I tried it first in mid August after I had done "L'Hipposarse", but it was so hot that the slopers were impossible to stick anymore.
Today it felt sticky, but still I wasn't able to pull enough with my left hand on the arete to keep me in balance.
It was only after seeing a different beta on some pictures on bleau.info that I changed my method accordingly and sent it straight away.
This is a beautiful climb!!
I tried it first in mid August after I had done "L'Hipposarse", but it was so hot that the slopers were impossible to stick anymore.
Today it felt sticky, but still I wasn't able to pull enough with my left hand on the arete to keep me in balance.
It was only after seeing a different beta on some pictures on bleau.info that I changed my method accordingly and sent it straight away.
This is a beautiful climb!!
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière - Pensées Cachées 7B(7A+)
Last, but not least, I managed to pull off the jump of "Mister Dynamite".
When I sat under it the first time, I thought that I never would be able to jump to and hold on to those slopers. With both hand at the same time.
Immediately after my first try, I had to adjust my opinion. I came closer than I expected.
Not many tries later, almost unexpectedly, my hands stuck on the slopers and I mantled up.
When I sat under it the first time, I thought that I never would be able to jump to and hold on to those slopers. With both hand at the same time.
Immediately after my first try, I had to adjust my opinion. I came closer than I expected.
Not many tries later, almost unexpectedly, my hands stuck on the slopers and I mantled up.
Fontainebleau - Cuisinière - Mister Dynamite 7B
I still spent some time in "Le Bleurb", but for that, the conditions don't have to be good, they have to be perfect!
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