Monday, August 29, 2016

August 29, 2016 - Keep the adrenalin going!

After diner I returned to Roche aux Oiseaux to try one of the other recent openings of Grégoire Thibault.
This time in the back of Roche aux Oiseaux, or in front, depending from where you're coming.

"L'Epervier (assis)" can be found on the top of the hill, to the right of "Migration Lente" and "Le Flop" between the main area and La Ségognole.
It's a typical bleausards style wall with slopey crimps and very bad footholds. Also very exposed with a couple of small boulders underneath it, making it difficult to make a good landing with the crashpad. Even with my big old faithful Black Diamond Mondo.
It's a very technical problem, not quite my style, but in the end I made it my style by doing it with a dynamic move, even though it wasn't always a good idea, and I have felt it.

It took me a while before I had figured out the method that suited me the most, but with dynamic move it was difficult to land correctly when I missed the hold.
At a certain moment, I nearly had the good hold on the right, slipped off, came down on my feet, but the crashpad folded (as expected) and made me sprain my ankle pretty bad.
The pain shot through my whole body and I couldn't hold down a shout.
It hurt a lot but the adrenalin that flew through my body eased the pain and I knew I had to be quick to keep my attempts going.
If would wait too long, the adrenalin would fade away and the pain would really kick in.
I did it on my attempt right after.

I walked back to the car and by the time I was at La Ségognole, I was limping. It's not too bad, but I certainly will feel that tomorrow.
At least it could have been much worse than "just" a sprained ankle.

Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - L'Epervier (assis) 7A


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