The goal was to climb "Marmelade" that I tried once in Winter, fell off the last move and packed up because friends had arrived. I'm sure that if I would have done another try, that I would have done it.
When I stood at the boulder, I had forgotten about most of the moves, so it took me a couple of tries before I got the correct sequence again.
I did feel nervous and a bit anxious because of the extremely sandy undercling under the roof.
As usual, I was on my own and I feared slipping off the sandy hold uncontrollably. In fact, it is so sandy that you literally have to close your eyes to avoid getting the falling sand into them when taking the undercling. The hold also moves a bit and feels very fragile, as if it can break any second.
Set the fear aside, do the moves correctly and it climbs as a 7A. Must be one of the easiest for the grade, but then again, it's hard to argue about Bleau and grades. It's a never ending story.
Apple, blackberry or orange ? My favourite marmelade is cherry.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - Marmelade 7B(7A+)
I briefly tried "Trojan War", but the crack was moist and I didn't get further than lifting my ass off the ground and being eaten by mosquitos.
Maybe I will go and try "La Coccinelle" one of these days. Siem (Aerts) has drawn my interest towards it.
Who knows what it will bring ?
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