Somehow, it got into my head to try "Peter Pan" again.
Again, because last year when I tried it, I didn't dare to make the big jump to the left. Afraid of taking a swing, not sticking the hold and twisting my body during my fall, making it uncontrollable.
No real fear this time, but I did feel somewhat nervous. Not only for falling, but mostly because I had a feeling that I would do it today.
Weirdly enough, it wasn't the far jump that gave the most trouble today, but I did have to practice the first dynamic move towards the sloper and stick it.
I don't know how, but somehow, after 14 days in a row of climbing and doing at least one 7th grade problem every day, my skin still can cope with it.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - Peter Pan 7B+(7B)
The feeling I had was intense after doing "Peter Pan" and I was hungry for more.
A little further up the hill there is a new 7B that has been opened begin of August, "L'Inhomogène".
I found it easily and noticed that several more quite recently opened problems are laying around it.
Yet, "L'Inhomogène" was the problem I tried first.
The problem is basically graded on one hard move. The first one.
Getting your butt off the ground and swinging for the good hold is the hardest part, but it didn't give me too much trouble.
What follows is a 6C+ problem. I have my doubts about the grade, but it fits my style. I would call at least a soft 7B.
A little further up the hill there is a new 7B that has been opened begin of August, "L'Inhomogène".
I found it easily and noticed that several more quite recently opened problems are laying around it.
Yet, "L'Inhomogène" was the problem I tried first.
The problem is basically graded on one hard move. The first one.
Getting your butt off the ground and swinging for the good hold is the hardest part, but it didn't give me too much trouble.
What follows is a 6C+ problem. I have my doubts about the grade, but it fits my style. I would call at least a soft 7B.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - L'Inhomogène 7B
At about 10 meters from there, you can find "Hara", a beautiful 7A on compression and with heelhooks.
I gave it a couple of goes, and when I fell off the last move, it started raining, so I packed up and took shelter under the roof of "Hara".
It didn't rain very and not long, and even though I had been thinking to leave and come back another day for "Hara", I checked how wet the holds had become.
To my pleasant surprise, the holds were still dry. The top sloper was wet, but it was only on the surface, so drying it off with my towel was enough to make doable again.
I couldn't resist, unpacked again and went for it.
Again, I fell off the last move.
The problem is quite physical and while I was shaking my arms and fingers, drops started falling out of the sky again.
With the energy I still had left, I went for a last possible go and sent it.
Just in time, because the rain didn't stop anymore and by the time I had packed up again, the boulder had now become too wet to climb.
When I arrived at the car, it was still raining.
I gave it a couple of goes, and when I fell off the last move, it started raining, so I packed up and took shelter under the roof of "Hara".
It didn't rain very and not long, and even though I had been thinking to leave and come back another day for "Hara", I checked how wet the holds had become.
To my pleasant surprise, the holds were still dry. The top sloper was wet, but it was only on the surface, so drying it off with my towel was enough to make doable again.
I couldn't resist, unpacked again and went for it.
Again, I fell off the last move.
The problem is quite physical and while I was shaking my arms and fingers, drops started falling out of the sky again.
With the energy I still had left, I went for a last possible go and sent it.
Just in time, because the rain didn't stop anymore and by the time I had packed up again, the boulder had now become too wet to climb.
When I arrived at the car, it was still raining.
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - Hara 7A(7A+)
Now it's time for a forced rest because this weekend I will be in Belgium and from Monday until Wednesday I'm travelling for work.
Let the skin grow back!
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