My cousin with his wife and kids, and some friends were staying over and we were with a total of 12 people in the house.
It surely was a full house, but it was cosy with long evenings, fun games and nice talks.
The weather was not as good as one would expect for mid Summer, but we were able to go swimming in the river with a tiny bit of circuit climbing where I unluckily sprained my ankle while trying to repeat "Toubib or not Toubib" in Bois Rond for the video.
The long evenings took me out my usual rhythm and made me tired.
When everyone left yesterday, I went climbing in the evening but I was so tired that I didn't finish anything and went to bed early, I needed a rest.
This morning, after a good night sleep, I finally felt rested again and went to Apremont Desert for some 7A climbing to get back into the flow again, get used to the rock again.
Even though my sprained ankle still hurt a little, the long walk towards the area didn't bother me, I enjoyed it and even was able to spot some wild deers.
I walked straight to the boulder of "L'Harmonie" where I warmed up trying a pretty new variation called "Harmonieuse Longévité".
It starts with the holds of "L'Harmonie", traverses low to the right to the starting holds of "Longévité" and finishes in "Longévité (sans convention)".
The first couple of moves in the low traverse are physically hard and once at the start of "Longévité", you just need to keep calm and finish it off.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Harmonieuse Longévité 7A(7A+)
Having done that, I set my goal on "L'Harmonie".
My first thought was that it is not my style with the arete on the left side, but after figuring out my sequence, it turned out to be a very nice problem with some cool moves!
My first thought was that it is not my style with the arete on the left side, but after figuring out my sequence, it turned out to be a very nice problem with some cool moves!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - L'Harmonie 7A+
I then got lost a bit in looking for a next cool problem to try, but I moved my stuff to another small sector and found my cup of tea in "Lost in Translation".
It was not difficult to climb the traverse with the jugs and I bagged it in really quick after working out the small crux move on the left.
It was not difficult to climb the traverse with the jugs and I bagged it in really quick after working out the small crux move on the left.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Lost in Translation 7A+(7A)
On the same boulder, more to the right, there is the problem "Hypocondriaque" that has a 'prolongé' making it a 7A.
Starting with a low undercling and a big pinch on the right. Once you get the toehook on the big pinch correctly, it's quite an easy problem.
If I would have that "Lost in Translation (prolongé)" existed too, I probably would have done it first try, but it will have to be for my next visit.
Starting with a low undercling and a big pinch on the right. Once you get the toehook on the big pinch correctly, it's quite an easy problem.
If I would have that "Lost in Translation (prolongé)" existed too, I probably would have done it first try, but it will have to be for my next visit.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Hypocondriaque (prolongé) 7A
Last but not least, I moved up the hill to try "Les Suricates". I had passed by it on my previous visit, but as I was already leaving, decided to try next time which was now.
The easiest of the day, and I flashed it with a bit of luck.
Five problems, three 7A's and two 7A+'s ... full house ?
The easiest of the day, and I flashed it with a bit of luck.
Five problems, three 7A's and two 7A+'s ... full house ?
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Les Suricates 7A(6C+)
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