I was in Belgium and I wanted to arrive on time so I wouldn't have the feeling to have lost most of the day on driving.
The announcement on the radio about an accident on the A6 forced me to drive via Melun, meaning that I would pass near Barbizon on my way.
I took the decision to stop at the parking of Bas Cuvier so I could go and "just have a look" at the boulders of Apremont Portes du Désert. Igor had told me nice things about it so there I went.
There were more people than I had expected, but I was able to climb some nice, not too difficult problems.
Guillaume (Levernier) was there too with some friends and he's always eager to explain the methods of problems in much detail.
The first problem I tried, while I was still alone, was the pretty recent "Solar Sit-Pulse".
Even though the slopers had caught some sun already and were quite warm, I managed to flash it.
The first move is the hardest and then you kind of have to slap your way up the slopers until your feet are on the boulder.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Solar Sit-Pulse 7A
"Extra Ball" was something I actually still wanted to give a quick try, but there was a small group already busy on it, so I went on to have a look at the boulder with "Furtif".
It was there that even more people were, but as there some other problems around it, I gave a couple of them a (or some) tries.
The only available problem was "Accrocheur". Visually really nice.
It starts off with good jugs and then requires a big move high up to a sloper on the top.
This went down on my third go, and mainly because the two other tries I slapped next to the better sloper.
After putting a small tick mark, I could actually see now where I had to slap and then it went easily.
Guillaume and his friend Ben did it quickly too, but not as fast as I had expected.
They are taller than me and this gave them more difficulties to put their feet on the same height.
It was there that even more people were, but as there some other problems around it, I gave a couple of them a (or some) tries.
The only available problem was "Accrocheur". Visually really nice.
It starts off with good jugs and then requires a big move high up to a sloper on the top.
This went down on my third go, and mainly because the two other tries I slapped next to the better sloper.
After putting a small tick mark, I could actually see now where I had to slap and then it went easily.
Guillaume and his friend Ben did it quickly too, but not as fast as I had expected.
They are taller than me and this gave them more difficulties to put their feet on the same height.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Accrocheur 7A
Another problem that was available in the meantime was the small roof with "Dégazage", a 7A+ consisting of 2 jugs as starting holds, a move to the sloper edge of the roof and then comes where it got its grade, a really hard mantle.
After loosing some skin from belly on it, someone told that there is also a small traverse from right to left under the roof, finishing left with an easier mantle.
Since the skin on my belly looked already pretty scratched, I gave up on "Dégazage" and tried the traverse, "Nuage Pyroclastique". I flashed it with quite some ease.
After loosing some skin from belly on it, someone told that there is also a small traverse from right to left under the roof, finishing left with an easier mantle.
Since the skin on my belly looked already pretty scratched, I gave up on "Dégazage" and tried the traverse, "Nuage Pyroclastique". I flashed it with quite some ease.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Nuage Pyroclastique 7A(6C+)
Right across from "Nuage Pyroclastique" is the beautiful boulder with "Neurotoxine" and "Cardiotoxine".
Someone gave some beta for "Cardiotoxine" and this one too I was able to flash.
Someone gave some beta for "Cardiotoxine" and this one too I was able to flash.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Cardiotoxine 7A(6C+)
A little bit lower at about 15 meters from there, I had seen "Semeur de Vie", another 7A that I quickly wanted to try.
The description says that it's morpho, and it's actually so morpho that at a certain point my arms were so stretched out that I couldn't move anymore.
Two friends from Guillaume, Ben and someone else had joined me in the meantime and we decided to try the variation more to the right, the anti-morpho variation.
It has the same sitstart as "Semeur de Vie" but then follows the logical more to the right.
This felt hard for me, but I think I was simply out of energy, and as I was the first of us three to do that variation, I lost some time, power and energy looking for some holds near the top.
I couldn't find any reference to this logical line on bleau.info, but I asked Jean-Pierre to create a new page and maybe name the problem "Semeur de Vie (droite)". The grade we proposed would be a small 7A(6C+).
The description says that it's morpho, and it's actually so morpho that at a certain point my arms were so stretched out that I couldn't move anymore.
Two friends from Guillaume, Ben and someone else had joined me in the meantime and we decided to try the variation more to the right, the anti-morpho variation.
It has the same sitstart as "Semeur de Vie" but then follows the logical more to the right.
This felt hard for me, but I think I was simply out of energy, and as I was the first of us three to do that variation, I lost some time, power and energy looking for some holds near the top.
I couldn't find any reference to this logical line on bleau.info, but I asked Jean-Pierre to create a new page and maybe name the problem "Semeur de Vie (droite)". The grade we proposed would be a small 7A(6C+).
Fontainebleau - Apremont Portes du Désert - Semeur de Vie (droite) 7A(6C+)
In between these problems, I still had a look at "Furtif" and many other problems but I didn't try because either it was too much with slopers in the sun, or I didn't want to spend too much time on a problem now. I will come back here anyway, but maybe in colder conditions.
By the way, I was only there to just have a look.
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