Friday, June 24, 2016

June 24, 2016 - Two (not so) quick ones.

After work I quickly went to Franchard Sablons.
One of the problems I wanted to try was "Sale Affaire". I stood once before it, but the conditions were too wet to even try it back then.

After briefly saying hi to Igor, Siem, partners, baby and friends in Isatis, I continued my way to Franchard Sablons.
"Sale Affaire" is harder than it looks but still it went quick. It took me 10 minutes and maybe 5 tries.
Just in time, because it started to be completely in the sun.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons - Sale Affaire 7A(7A+)




I made my way up to the top of the hill while trying some other problems here and there, but most of them were in the sun now and the heat in the direct was starting to become unbearable.
All the way on top of the hill, however, I knew that something would be in the shade, "Jette à la Rue", a dyno in a small alley between boulders.
I had tried it once but the conditions were against me that time. It's almost constantly in the shade, so slow drying.
Now, on the third consecutive day of sun and heat, it was all dry.
I thought that it would have been a quick one as it's a dyno that was orginally opened as a 6C+(7A).
It gave me a lesson in humbleness. Almost half an hour of non stop trying and jumping. I can feel it in my legs now.

At first I had to get used to the position from where I had to set off the dyno. More or less sideways jump to the left while holding the arete with the right hand. It's really an unnatural move and it hurt my back time after time.
Many, many times I was able to reach with my fingers around the good edge, but it was also hard to actually stick it.
Some will probably flash this with ease and find it really easy, I found this really hard and was glad to get it over with! Hard 7A dyno if you ask me.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons - Jette à la Rue 7A


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