May 21, 2023 - Post key hold break.

I asked Anthony to drive me to Franchard Raymond so I could try "Etalonnage Physique" again. It's a quite hard and reachy problem that became even harder after a key hold broke back in 2018. What was once a pretty good four finger crimp had since become a bad shallow two finger crimp. I had tried "Etalonnage Physique" several times, before and after the hold broke, but even before the hold had broken, I had never managed to do the reachy last part of the problem, let alone after the hold broke. Located on the on the North side of the hill, just below the ridge, it's a slow drying boulder, but after a couple of days with beautiful weather, I thought I would take the chance.
The boulder was perfectly dry, but as the last registered repetitions were from 2018, before the hold broke, I had to start with brushing the upper part of the problem again. Nature tends to take over again faster on the North side.

I could the first part again immediately, but the upper and reachy part took a long time and many attempts before I had figured out what to do and how to position myself to be able to get to the final jug on the top. Funny enough, almost as if it was destined to happen, only after I had explained Anthony what my intention was and what I was trying to achieve, I suddenly managed to do the upper part. Knowing that the first part wasn't an issue, and knowing how to move at the end, I couldn't completely suppress some upcoming 'sending stress'. I did manage to keep my head with it and surprisingly topped out on my first attempt after putting up the camera. It might not look very hard on the video, but that one doesn't include the multiple sessions and many attempts before. Glad to finally tick off this beauty.

Fontainebleau - Franchard Raymond - Etalonnage Physique 7B+