Saturday, May 6, 2023

May 06, 2023 - Spiral of violence.

After some rain yesterday during the day and still a heavy rain shower late in the evening, I expected everything to be wet this morning, but my terrace was dry and so was the street, so I had mild hope to find dry boulders before noon. I had my son drive me to Rocher Saint-Germain and after warming up my fingers and some practice attempts on the dynamic move of "Spirale de Violence (assis)", I ticked it off relatively quick.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Spirale de Violence (assis) 7A+



It was already quite warm but the shady enclosed spot remained quite cool, so I stayed where I was to give "L'Intelligence du Sot (assis)" a shot. This one also didn't take very long. A quite nice and fun problem, quite atypical with the swing into the toehook. Almost like the current style of boulders that they set for championships.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - L'Intelligence du Sot (assis) 7B

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3 comments:

  1. AnonymousMay 8, 2023 at 11:56 AM

    Nice send of the assis version Flip. Did you try the lower start too? It took me 2 hours to manage the first two moves of the low version from the undercling. Something around 7c / 7b+.

    Best regards,
    Theo

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    Replies
    1. Filip NotebaertMay 8, 2023 at 4:31 PM

      Hi Theo, thanks!
      The undercling was damp due to the rain from the night before so I didn't try then, but I did try it briefly a little over a year ago and couldn't stick the arete. It feels frigging hard and definitely closer to 7C than 7B+ in my humble opinion! Congrats with that ascent!
      Not sure when I will go back for it (there is no hurry ;-)), but it's on my list.
      Cheers,
      Filip

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    2. AnonymousMay 9, 2023 at 2:16 PM

      Hello Filip
      Yes, it could be 7c. Sometimes I'm too cautious with the grading. It is a really hard move and the dyno is much harder, when you come from the undercling.
      You might like this boulder in Petit Bois.
      https://www.instagram.com/p/CrILKwNgzf7/
      I did the first ascent on my last trip.

      Best regards
      Theo

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