May 13, 2023 - Failsafe.

I decided to go to Petit Bois today with two things on my mind to try. The newly opened by Theo Konstantakopoulos "Le Sac Sauvage" and "Big Dragon". I was early though and the conditions in Petit Bois weren't good yet. A lot of the boulders felt damp and so was "Le Sac Sauvage", the boulder I wanted to start with. Despite the rising sun improving the conditions quickly, the three finger pocket far left stayed damp and even felt humid. As if the sun was pulling the moisture out to the surface. I needed some time to work out the delicate first moves, did them all separately and even though also the very nice almost 360° move like Theo showed on his Instagram video, I didn't feel confident doing that move when coming from the start. The damp three finger pocket just before the pinch made my fingers a bit slippery, making the 360° move very uncertain. Before giving it some real attempts from the start, I decided to work out a failsafe in case my fingers would be too slippery to go for the 360° move. The alternative move that I ended up finding, a toehook into a kneedrop and then crossing over my left hand, felt more certain, but still there were a few times when I still slipped off the pinch when coming from the damp three finger pocket. Nevertheless, I decided to give it a go. Very unexpectedly, I was able to do it right away, but slippery fingers forced me to use the failsafe and even there I almost slipped off. A very nice addition from Theo. See his method with the 360° move here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CrILKwNgzf7/ 

Fontainebleau - Petit Bois - Le Sac Sauvage 7B

I had never tried "Big Dragon" before, but after more than an hour of trying, I ended up being able to do all the moves until the high spiky sloper high up. Unfortunately, that's where it gets really morpho and I am so stretched out that I can barely move. Anyway, I was happy with my high point there and "Big Dragon" will definitely stay on my list.