Monday, May 8, 2023

May 08, 2023 - Out of my mind.

I tried "Piece of Mind" in Apremont Ouest only briefly over four years ago, but I soon figured out that there was physically no way that I could reach both aretes with my height and arm span. I gave up on it very quickly, but maybe if I had stayed longer, using a toehook would have come to mind, but instead, it was Jan (Gorrebeeck) who told me about a toehook method for shorter climbers. Toehooks being my thing, I was eager to try that method and went to Apremont Ouest yesterday late afternoon when there was a dry window. Unfortunately it started raining heavily just when I arrived at the area, and I had to let it pass. I comforted myself with today, the 8th of May being a public holiday in France and no rain forecasted.
This morning it was dry and the friction on the boulder was even very good. Ideal to boost my motivation. I had it all figured out pretty quickly and after some tweaking the last moves, I was able to get away with the ascent. A very nice problem that completely fits my style with that toehook and using a full body span in compression.

Fontainebleau - Apremont Ouest - Piece of Mind 7C(7C+)

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