Sunday, November 27, 2022

November 26, 2022 - A design becomes reality.

About a month ago, I had a concrete floor installed in my barn, and one of the first things that I wanted, was to build a small overhanging bouldering wall. After many designs using the free online version of SketchUp, I finally ended with a definite design and started building a few weeks ago.


The final design.

Because I took my time and also built other things in between, the progress was slow, but steady and earlier this week it came to the point that it was ready to put in place. I wanted a completely free-standing wall, without anything fixed to the wall, so putting it all up was not something I could do by myself. I therefor gladly accepted Pieter's proposal to help me out this weekend. The structure being very heavy, I called Christophe (Laumone) and Jean-Hervé (Baudot) asking if they could come over and give us an extra hand on Sunday, I was delighted that they both confirmed without any hesitation.

I met Pieter yesterday morning on the parking of Roche aux Sabots and we made our way to the Cul de Chien area with the intention to try and hopefully finish the beautiful and popular "Arabesque", also known as "L'Autre Toit". The first ten minutes we were alone at the big roof, but it didn't take long before other climbers arrived at the spot.
I managed to get away with "Arabesque", after which we decided to leave and look for a calmer spot at the 91.1 area on our way back.

Fontainebleau - Cul de Chien - Arabesque / L'Autre Toit 7B+



We ended up at the boulder with "La Serpe d'Or", which I was able to repeat quite fast. Pieter tried a lot but couldn't keep the left heel hook long enough and he came up with the idea to try something seemingly new on the arete to the right of it. Starting with a slopey crimp behind the arete right hand and the undercling left hand, it looked logical to make a dynamic move to some bad slopers, match it with both hands and then finish left into the top of "La Serpe d'Or". Maybe it were the conditions but it took quite a few attempts for me to make it.
Pieter agreed to name it "L'Arbitre" and even though he hadn't done it yet, the grade of 7A+(7A) seemed appropriate.

Fontainebleau - 91.1 - L'Arbitre 7A+(7A)



I left home to finish hammering the T-nuts on the panels for my wall, while Pieter stayed in the area and continue working "L'Arbitre". When he arrived at my home a few hours later, it was nice to hear that he had done it as well and confirmed the grade.
Being motivated by Pieter, we made some finishing touches to the structure of the wall and decided to try and put it up after a well-deserved pizza. We made big progress and thanks to Pieter managed to put it up and fix it a few hours later, it had become much later than anticipated and exhausted we went to sleep.


The structure erected; no Viagra was used.

After a good sleep, and the arrival of Christophe and Jean-Hervé, it all went very quick and barely an hour after their arrival, the panels were on the wall and well fixed. It was time to screw on the first holds.


Fixing the last heavy panel.



The first holds on the wall.

A huge, enormous thanks to Pieter, Christophe and Jean-Hervé, for helping out without any hesitation and on such a short notice! It is much appreciated!
Funny enough, when the wall was completely finished, we went for a climb ... in the forest. The weather allowed it and dry boulders outside are more attractive than an indoor artificial overhang. Climbing it would be for rainy days and dark evenings.
At Mont Pivot, Pieter climbed "Pulpo", and I was able to repeat it. Then it was time to go higher up and try the classic but scary "Pancras". Even though we both had already worked the sitstart in the past, Pieter and I had never even done the standing start, so we wisely decided to focus on that one. We were both exhausted from all the work, but to my big surprise, I ended up finishing this beauty. It was scary though.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - Pancras 7A+(7A)



Thanks again Pieter, Christophe and Jean-Hervé for helping me make what started as a design, a reality!

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