November 19, 2022 - From high to low.

I have started building a bouldering wall in the barn of my house, and as I was eager to continue working on it, I decided to stay close and try to keep the climbing short. When I arrived at the boulder of "Malus Auto" in Rocher Cailleau and warmed up in "Guide de la Pince", I was surprised with how good the conditions were and how good the friction was. For a moment, I was thinking that maybe I should have gone back to "Entrailles" in Rocher de Milly, but the work on my bouldering wall felt more important. Besides, I did make my visit to Rocher Cailleau worth it.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Guide de la Pince 7A(6C+)

After "Guide de la Pince", I began on "Malus Auto (direct)", of which I was able to work out the first few moves last Wednesday but couldn't continue due to the boulder being too humid higher up. With a crux that high, I needed it to be in good condition.
The rather quick ascent of "Malus Auto (direct)" proved how good the conditions were, but despite that, the topout was really scary and quite sketchy. The feet felt so bad and made me think I could slip off any moment until I found myself completely on top of this beautiful high prow.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Malus Auto (direct) 7B(7B+)

Having some time left in my planning, I decided to look for the new boulder of "Voûte Entoilée" on top of the neighboring hill, above the phallus shaped boulder with "Le Gland Incarné". The contrast between the 4- or 5-meters high prow of "Malus Auto (direct)" and the barely 2 meters low "Voûte Entoilée" almost couldn't be greater. 
The first moves under the low roof looked too morpho at first, but it didn't take long to find a possible method. I quickly worked out the moves at the end and sent the problem immediately after. It made up for not having done the long walk to "Entrailles" and with a sense of relief I went back home to work on my bouldering wall. It will be a 2m50 wide and 3m40 high 35° overhanging face. I'll post a picture on my blog when it's erected and finished.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Voûte Etoilée 7B+(7C)