Fontainebleau - Apremont Est - L'Arête du Boucher / Appréhension 7A(6C+)
Almost immediately followed by the sitstart, on my second attempt.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Est - L'Arête du Boucher (assis) 7A+
"Un Os sous l'Arête" sitstarts far left, follows the arete to the right on bad slopers and a few crimps in the overhang, to finally exit in "L'Arête du Boucher". Working out the moves went quicker than I expected and soon I was able to make the whole linkup to the standing start of "L'Arête du Boucher". Even though the weather conditions were in favor, my skin was not, and I wasn't able to keep the friction long enough to make it to the end. I had a feeling that with this skin, it was pointless to keep on trying, but being able to make the link up to the standing start felt like a good progress, it definitely feels possible. Satisfied with the progress, I decided to move to the central area of Apremont and try "Marginal (droite)", which was also on my list.
I was surprised to top it out on my first attempt.
I was surprised to top it out on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Marginal (droite) 7B(7A+)
Still eager to climb, I doubted between "Massacre à l'Intermarché" and "Futura Santé". Even though I had tried the latter long ago and it felt impossible at that time, I decided to go for "Futura Santé". With only one very hard move to a bad sloper instead of the continuous bad slopers of "Massacre à l'Intermarché", it was probably better with such bad skin.
I had tried "Futura Santé" briefly about four years ago, but as it felt so impossible, I had opened another easier left version back then. This time, I was determined to spend more time on it and see if there would be any possibility for progress.
The first couple of attempts seemed to confirm my thought that it was indeed impossible for me, but after some time, making minor adjustments, there was mild progress. The right hand move from a low undercling to a high bad sloper is huge and really hard, but when I was finally able to touch the sloper, I turned on the camera to add some pressure. It still took more than an hour of attempt after attempt until I finally stuck the move, but still fell off afterwards. Thinking it would go fast now, it took almost another half an hour of attempts before I stuck the move again. This time, I stayed focused and struggled further to the top of this small boulder. A one move wonder followed by a sketchy mantle with bad and slightly sandy slopers.
I had tried "Futura Santé" briefly about four years ago, but as it felt so impossible, I had opened another easier left version back then. This time, I was determined to spend more time on it and see if there would be any possibility for progress.
The first couple of attempts seemed to confirm my thought that it was indeed impossible for me, but after some time, making minor adjustments, there was mild progress. The right hand move from a low undercling to a high bad sloper is huge and really hard, but when I was finally able to touch the sloper, I turned on the camera to add some pressure. It still took more than an hour of attempt after attempt until I finally stuck the move, but still fell off afterwards. Thinking it would go fast now, it took almost another half an hour of attempts before I stuck the move again. This time, I stayed focused and struggled further to the top of this small boulder. A one move wonder followed by a sketchy mantle with bad and slightly sandy slopers.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Futura Santé 7C+(7C)
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