Saturday, November 5, 2022

November 05, 2022 - Blown up.

The conditions were not very promising when I left for Mont Ussy Est. I had made note of a few boulders that I wanted to find, and hopefully try. First on the list was "Bouboule", but when I unexpectedly walked by the new "Hey J", I decided to give a try, even though it wasn't really on my list.
It took a moment before I was able to figure how to go for and hold the vertical crimp in the left face, but once I knew what to do, it went down quick.

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy Est - Hey J 7A



Looking for the boulder of "Bouboule", I found the boulder of "Le Corps Epouse la Forme" by coincidence, which was on my list, but too humid to try, especially given the bad landing, so I continued my search for "Bouboule". The high ferns made it difficult to walk through and look far, and thinking it was the right boulder, I found myself in front of another boulder on my list, "Vite avant Cours". Being there, I used the occasion, worked out the moves and sent it rather quick. Very cool problem.

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy Est - Vite avant Cours 7A+



According to what I read, "Vite avant Cours" is supposed to be above the boulder with "Bouboule", so logically, I walked down the valley looking everywhere I could, but nothing that resembled the boulder I was looking for. It's as if someone just blew it up and made it disappear.
Having walked all the way down the valley, I decided to walk on to the boulder with "Percolation Critique", but as that was too humid to try. "Criminsix", right next to it, was dry, but required some cleaning. Not feeling like leaving, I decided to stay and clean the boulder again. Due to humid air, the holds stayed quite dirty and sandy, which made the standing start of "Criminsix" feel like hard 7A instead of the published 6C+.
After I finished the standing start, I went for the sitstart and was able to top this out as well after a handful of attempts. The dirty and sandy holds made it feel like the proposed 7B+, but I can very well imagine that it would rather be 7B with better conditions.

Fontainebleau - Mont Ussy Est - Criminsix (assis) 7B+

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