When I looked at the weather forecast yesterday, it didn't look like it would be possible to climb, but when the forecast changed this morning, there opened up a window for a climb. Not risking doing the long walk back to Rocher de Milly, I preferred to stay close and went to Rocher Cailleau to check out the newly published problems opened by Tony (Fouchereau). I had noticed the big boulder of "Malus Auto" already a couple of years ago, and I remembered thinking when someone would do the effort to open a few lines on it. It turns out that Tony did it.
I had hoped to try the beautiful prow of "Malus Auto (direct)", but the left shady side of the boulder was still too wet to climb. Luckily, the face with "Guide de la Verticale" on the boulder next to it, was dry enough.
It took me quite some time to find a good possible method, but when I finally did, I was surprised by the nice way it climbs.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Guide de la Verticale 7A+(7A)
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