Wednesday, May 11, 2022

May 11, 2022 - Third time, good time.

As my second and previous ascent of "Volt Face" turned out to be with a start still not low enough, I was determined to go back a third time today and finish it for once and for all with the lowest start possible. Jean-Hervé was going to meet me there, so I could have first hand validation of any possible re-ascent. The lowest start that I could possibly find was by using the lowest undercling right hand in the middle of the roof and the arete as low as possible left hand, the feet all the way in the back. Once my butt was off the ground, I put a left toehook behind the arete where my left hand was, reached for a slopey hold left hand and blocked the right foot in the low pocket where my right hand was. This allowed me to reach the three finger pocket in the middle of the roof. I then blocked my left foot in the pocket below the one where my right foot was blocked and reached for the left three finger pocket left hand. Then I placed the right foot back in the low pocket where it was before and threw a left toehook behind the left arete to then climb on as before and finish in "Volt Face". It doesn't add much more difficulty to the start that I had done last time, but I must admit that it adds a very nice sequence of about three to four moves.
Right at the moment that I topped out and stood on the boulder, I could see Jean-Hervé making his way up the hill. Explaining and showing what I did, it turned out to be good enough for the lowest start possible. 

Fontainebleau - Oncy-sur-Ecole Sud - Volt Face (lowest start) 7C



It has been quite a story since the first time I climbed the boulder with a few corrections and having to go back, but after all, I enjoyed spending every minute at this beautiful boulder. Even when I was finished, I still climbed on with Jean-Hervé, trying different methods. When Alex joined us as well about an hour later, I managed to repeat the lowest start again completely to show him the sequence that I used. There are so many different methods, so I will definitely still go back on a hot day some time this Summer.

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